Monday, November 26, 2007

Chanel jacket is finished







Vogue 7975, sizes 6-22. I made size 6, view B.

Not only I wanted to make a Chanel-like jacket for quite some time (since I saw Marji's jacket - read her review here) but I was absolutely fascinated with this jacket) - it is from the Threads online extra to Susan Khalje's article about making a Chanel jacket. This particular jacket is not quilted, but mine is, because I tried as we say in my country "to shoot two rabbits with one bullet) - make this jacket and try the Chanel techniques as well.

I chose this pattern because it was recommended by many (including Susan Khalje) as a pattern adequate for a Chanel-like jacket.

Fabric: Wool spongy very stretchy knit, silk serge for the lining, white wool/poly for collar and cuffs, chain for the hem, silk thread and beeswax.

First of all, I should have made a muslin. I know I should have but patterns do fit me out of the envelope most of the times and I was so obsessed with this jacket that I wanted to start working on it right then. After quilting the entire jacket, I discovered that the jacket was a bit too large and the armhole was not as high as I would have wanted, plus the shoulder was 5/8 too long. See this post about the problems that I had.

See this about how I solved the problems:

1) I took in another 5/8 at each center front
2) I took in the shoulder with about 5/8
3) Dawn gave me great advice about inserting a gusset that would solve my too large armhole problem. She later published a great post about raising armholes and inserting sleeve gussets - read it here. My fabric being very spongy, you cannot see that gusset even if I raise my arm and you're really close :)

My fabric is not exactly the fabric you would use for a Chanel jacket. It's not boucle, but a spongy wool knit - it is very stretchy so quilting it to the lining was a challenge even with my walking foot, because the knit kept growing. What helped was pinning and holding the fabric taut crosswise. Steaming the knit also helped to make it go back into shape.

I would have never thought about making a Chanel quilted jacket out of something else than boucle, but I was inspired by Carolyn who used the Chanel-like quilting on a Jackie O inspired jacket that turned out absolutely gorgeous - see her jacket and read her posts about it here, here and here.

Therefore I used this spongy knit, I sewed the quilting lines with silk thread and afterwards brushed all the sewing lines with an old nail brush, to stimulate the "sponginess" of the fabric and make it cover the sewing. The quilting is quite inconspicuous as a result, as you can see below



The quilting was done 1.5 inches apart (it is usually done at 1 inch apart but I didn't want too many quilting lines on this wool).


I've used Burdastyle Eva 4102 pattern for the collar and the cuffs.

The pockets are not quilted, but lined and attached by hand, with very small fell stitches



Attaching the collar and the cuffs: I left both the neckline and the sleeve ends not quilted for about 2 inches. I interfaced with a soft knit fusible both pieces of the collar and both pieces of the cuff, sewed them together, turned, understitched and then attached them (together) to the fabric part of the jacket, keeping the lining away. The lining was then attached to the cuffs/collar with small fell stitches (see below).



At the time that I bought the pearl trim (more than 6 months ago in Brussels) I didn't know there was such a thing as pearl piping and therefore bought a string of pearls. I sewed them by hand, one by one, to the collar and the cuffs. See how I did that in this post.





I've tried the jacket on before pinning the chain to the hem and it fitted really good, which made me wonder if I need a chain at all. I pinned the chain and tried the jacket on again. A revelation! The jacket hangs so much better with the chain. I was lucky and got both the right chain weight and the right pinning (not too tight, as to gather the jacket and not too large, as to make it flare). Each chain link is sewn by hand to the hem, attaching both the upper part and the lower part of the link with fell stitches, securing the chain perfectly to the jacket.



I'm really very happy with my new jacket and can't wait to wear it. I leave tomorrow for a very important and official meeting outside my town and it will come in handy.

Too bad, but the photos don't show the tiny white dots on my skirt and the little pearl earrings that I wear.

Read my PR review here.

32 comments:

Sigrid said...

Wonderful jacket Laura, as usual your attention to detail really makes this standing out. You will feel very confident in this at your important meeting, I'm sure.
Reading your post, the posts of Carolyn and an article in Threads about Chanel jackets convinces me I have to try this too in the near future.

Lori said...

Beautiful jacket, Laura. I agree with Sigrid, your attention to detail makes this even more spectacular.

Linda said...

Laura - What a beautiful jacket. It must have been a dream to put this together. You did a fantastic job. Thanks for sharing the story about your Grandmother. How special it must have been to this time with her. And I loved the coat your sister made too. Is she going to be starting a sewing blog anytime soon? Her hand sewing skils are to die for. Thanks for sharing.

Bonnie D. said...

I am stunned!! This is a fabulous jacket. The pearl edging is spectacular. You continue to be an inspiration to me. You will look mighty fine for your meeting!

christina said...

This is just gorgeous. Exactly like your inspiration jacket. Wow.

Tany said...

I'm overwhelmed with the beauty of this jacket and also by the entire outfit! Just Fabulous! Laura, I don't have enough words to express my admiration! Bravo! And thank you so much for sharing!

Lashell said...

The jacket is beautiful. I love the pearls. Very Chanel but also a Laura original.

Isabelle said...

Oh Laura... Your jacket is amazing!! All those details... I love the white contrast and your choice of fabric makes the jacket looks "younger", which I find is great! I haven't been attracted to the Chanel jackets because they looked to old to me - you are certainly proving me wrong! It is simply amazing!! You look so smashing. Bravo !

Summerset said...

Stunning! The color combination along with the pearls is so classic. Between the style and the superb hand finishing, you'll be able to wear this jacket for a long time!

Erica B. said...

Laura, this jacket is stunning! It suits you so well! Fantastic job!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Laura - the finished jacket is just amazing! I love all the different components in this jacket. There is so much in it that just screams quality and couture! Beautiful, just beautiful!

Cherie said...

Laura, I can only add another "beautiful" to these comments! As they say, "it is all in the details". I was excited to see how lovely that pearl detail looked on the finished piece. Another inspiration for me!

Shannon said...

What a lovely coat - you have done a magnificent job!!!

Laura said...

This looks ravishing. I'm a sucker for black and white, and it looks very clean and modern. Thank you for all the detailed reviews.

It's funny, here in the US the expression is "kill two birds with one stone." Not too different, huh?

Angelia said...

Awesome I love this!! You are an artist!

cidell said...

Laura, this is jut brilliant. What a fabulous interpretation. Gah, makes me want to try it. And I'm the laziest person I know. Beautiful!

Vicki said...

How lovely Laura!! You have done a beautiful job. And I can see your pearls earings and the white dots on your skirt on my monitor. You must be so proud! You look gorgeous!

Linda said...

Bravo, great job! Laura, I am truly impressed. That is a great looking jacket and it is soooo you!

LauraLo said...

Thank you very much, ladies! It was lots and lots of work but I feel that every minute was worth it and I definitely want to make another one some time soon.

Katrin said...

This is absolutely gorgeous. I also considered Chanel jackets as too old, but this version is so lovely.
I am sure the whole outfit is perfect for your meeting. Good luck!
Katrin

Berry said...

I'm amazed at the pearl's job you've done. You're jacket is really stunning.

paco peralta said...

Laura .- Greetings from Barcelona. Congratulations on the result of the jacket style "Chanel." A superb sewing and good taste in the details. The detail of the chain is great, because it gives better fall to the pledge. I always include in the soil hemmed in jackets and coats inside a chain or lead weights at the seams, especially if they are made of fabrics bouclé or light wool. I said, congratulations and enjoy this magnificent pledge. Greetings. Paco.

AH!. You already included in my blog. Thanks.

Emily said...

Your jacket is so beautiful! I've been wanting to make a version of the Chanel jacket myself, and I just love the twist you put on yours. It looks great.

Lovely said...

All of your hard work paid off because that jacket is gorgeous!

Marji said...

Laura, this is just lovely. You did a spectacular job on it. Kudos to you for the construction details and the nerve to venture outside the box a bit with the fabric.
Personally, I'm relieved that you didn't find the pearl piping until after you'd obtained this, the string of pearls sewn on by hand is so much more elegant.
(psst, your chain is perfect, absolutely perfect, but you do know that every time you send it to the cleaners you must remove it, right?)

Marji said...

BTW, I'm honored to have even been a part of the inspiration in this jacket. May I turn it around now, and borrow your ideas? I'm looking at several new jackets for the season and love the addition of the collar and cuffs.

Johanna said...

What a wonderful jacket! You have done an amazing job. Actually I prefer this style to the traditional Chanel jacket. I am watching a French documentary called Signe Chanel tonight and I am just blown away with how much work that goes into haute couture. I have the uttermost respect for what you have done. Just sewing all those pearls by hand...wow!

dawn said...

You are looking so smart! It turned out great..I love the inside finishing, and the neatly attached pocket.

I have to say, I get a giggle out of you saying that even if someone was standing close and you lifted your arm, they couldn't see the gusset. LOL, it's a funny image!

gold said...

You did a wonderful job!

Kay said...

Wow! That is the most gorgeous jacket I've ever seen.

katherine h said...

I love, love, love the colour of your 114 blouse. Very jealous.

Giulia said...

You are so nice girl and you creation is fantastic. I'd like to make dress myself!!!

Giulia