First of all, thank you so much for your support!
I'm happy to report I've solved the problem and I'm working like crazy on the jacket. Dawn, the gusset was the answer, I hope I will post more about this tomorrow, I took 2 or 3 pics with my phone and I will tell you about my progress.
Carolyn, I know yours is not exactly a Chanel jacket, but I wanted to mention your blog because it was you that decided me to make this jacket in another fabric than boucle!
Johanna, thanks a million for the drawing, I didn't have any drawing of an actual Chanel jacket except the one provided by Claire Shaeffer in her article.
LMH, thank you, I'd like to have that quotation. I have the article mentioned and another one, also by Claire Shaeffer, on making Chanel skirts.
Donna, I've never worked with silk boucle, believe me this knit wool stretches sooooo much. Thank you for giving me the link to your blog, I'll check out the entire archive, your tips seem so very helpful.
Until tomorrow, happy sewing everyone!
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The Shaeffer article is "The Comfortable Side of Chanel," and it's in the Threads book "Great Sewn Clothes, Taunton, 1991. I got my copy very very cheap used (I think I only paid a couple of dollars), and it was well worth it. The Chanel article repeats a lot of the information Shaeffer gives elsewhere, but there are different pictures than usual and some interesting details about a typical Chanel jacket draft, including the three piece sleeves (there's a drawing of the pattern draft) that I don't think you can find elsewhere. Maybe this is the article you have? (though I think she did more than one on Chanel jackets for Threads; this one is pre-1991, obviously). The book also has several articles on other couturiers and some tailoring articles. It's really a good book.
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