Monday, October 8, 2007

Fifth wardrobe piece and Salsa pants for my husband

Salsa pants for my husband - a combination of the Classic Men's Jeans from e-sewingpatterns.com (see the jeans I made from this pattern in this post) and the Grey pants pattern from m-sewing.com (see the pants I made from this pattern in this post). I used this last pattern for the leg, a wider leg is very good for dancing Salsa and as the fabric is drapey, it worked great.





I underlined the fronts, going well below the knee, to minimize wrinkling at crotch and knee level.



I've used the RTW finishing detailed in this post, including the pre-made waist band (I found a nice black one, with no Christian Dior logo :))



And I've used again Debbie Cook's tutorial for the double welt pocket and am very pleased with the result.



Read my PR review here.

And now, my fourth wardrobe piece... one that I totally love, I think this is my favorite skirt pattern ever! Vogue 8246.





Back of the skirt lying flat



Front of the skirt lying flat




The fabric is a black washed stretch denim. However, I cut with the stretch on the length of the pattern pieces, not the width. I thought I might have to grade down and didn't want the additional stretch to make the job tougher.

I did a petite alteration, took in the side seams by 1 cm (3/8") each and shortened the skirt, because I wanted it to hit just below the knee. I also reduced the hem allowance from 3.2 cm (1 1/4") to 1.3 cm (1/2"). The back hem is rounded and it is so much easier to get a neat hem with a narrower hem allowance.

Other changes that I made are due to not having enough fabric. I had 1 m of fabric (for a straight skirt I normally need 50-60 cm) and it wasn't enough. Therefore I had to make a center seam to the center front piece instead of cutting it on the fold. In order to "camouflage" this seam, I zigzagged over all the seams (5 mm length 2 mm width) with black topstitching thread. I like very much the final result: all those vertical seams, topstitched in black give a lot of vertical lines that lengthen my petite frame. I thought about topstitching with a straight stitch (like in jeans) but my seam allowances are butterflied and a straight topstitch works better with seam allowances together.

See the pleat underlays below.







The other change due to lack of fabric is that I cut the pleat underlays from black cotton sateen.

To cleanly finish the facing and join it to the invisible zipper, I've used a great tutorial written by Jinjer Markley and posted on Kathleen's Fasanella's website, Fashion Incubator. Part 1 and Part 2 of the tutorial for inserting an invisible zipper, making and using a pressing jig and sewing the the zipper to the facing in an RTW way. I bound the facing with some polkadotted bias. The rest of the seam allowances are serged.



This is a great pattern, easy to sew (especially since there's no lining, it was a breeze after all the underlining and seam binding I've done lately). I want to sew it again, I will try it in some suiting. I'm also thinking about using this pattern without the underlays, maybe keeping the center one for walking ease and eliminating the rest but keeping the contouring seams.

So one or two skirts from this pattern will follow :)

Read my PR review here

29 comments:

Isabelle said...

Laura - all I can say after reading your post, looking at your pictures, is - wow!! Those pants you made for your husband are fantastic. I really, really should be braver and start sewing for Seb. Male sewing intimidates me.

As for your skirt... I can well understand why it is your favourite skirt pattern - look what an amazing skirt you created from it. The contrasting pleats are brilliant. The shape is ├╝ber-feminine, and looks perfect on you. I'm definitely adding that pattern to my wishlist!

Final wow - your husband and you are both so handsome! What a beautiful pair you make!! You must be one super hot couple when you're dancing Salsa :D

christina said...

Laura - what fantastic garments! That skirt looks like it was designed just for you. And your husband's pants have great details, lucky guy. You always impress me with you sewing skills!

Adrienne said...

Laura, both garments are wonderful but I LOVE your vogue skirt!!! It's fantastic!

LauraLo said...

Thank you so much, Isabelle, Christina, Adrienne! It is great to receive such compliments from accomplished seamstresses like yourselves!
Isabelle, do try male sewing and you won't regret it. I was quite shy at the beginning too but it works! Thank you for your compliments regarding Florin (my husband), you make me blush but I do hope we look nice when we dance salsa! And that especially because we really enjoy ourselves when we dance and I think that's important. To take pleasure in what you do...

Summerset said...

What great trousers for your husband! They're perfectly proportioned for the Salsa and other Latin dances - they fit beautifully through the waist and have that extra material in the leg which adds to the beauty of the dance.

Your skirt is wonderful. I like the idea of the contrast panels and all the topstitching to define the sections. The insides are extremely well done!

LauraLo said...

Thank you so much, Summerset! These are indeed the proportions for the Latin dances, the wide leg is both comfortable plus it moves gracefully at the hem (if the fabric is drapey) when dancing. He loves them, he left for Brussels and it was the first garment he packed (Brussels has some very nice Salsa places) :)
Finally, it seems that not having enough fabric for the skirt and being creative (insets from other fabric and topstitching) led me to a good result! I'm really happy about it because I hate that "didn't have enough fabric, had to some other stuff" look :)

Bonnie D. said...

Amazing!! Your skirt is super hot and I continued to be blown away by your workmanship.

Your husband is a cutie and will look terrific on the dance floor.

Erica B. said...

Laura, I love the skirt! I love the center front seam... I think that's a nice design detail. Great pants for your husband!

Sigrid said...

Great pants for your husband and a beautiful skirt for yourself. Marvellous finishing details, as usual.

Sismada said...

Beautiful skirt!!!

Vicki said...

I was watching Dancing With the Stars last night and they were doing the salsa! I commented at the time to my DD that I should take up dancing as all the professional dancers have such toned bodies (just like you and Florin.) And you get to wear pretty dresses - but I am not sure about dancing in heels..lol

Now back to sewing, love your skirt. The design is similar to another Anne Klein skirt I made. I love what you have done with the topstitching - I think I will give that a go too!

Mamapicklejuice said...

Va-va-va-VOOM! You and Florin are SUCH a handsome couple - sometime you have to post video of you two dancing the salsa - I would love to see that. Enjoy the skirt - it's another beautiful piece - and you look smokin' hot! ;-)

Cherie said...

Laura, what an artist you are! Sexy salsa dancing clothes!! Your details are awesome, and the fit on Florin's trousers and your skirt are perfection. So fun to see your creativity and how you enjoy your sewing. I vote for the video of you two dancing also!

LauraLo said...

Thank you, ladies, you are so nice!!! I promise I will try to get somebody to film us while we're dancing. Vicki, you're right, dancing does keep your body toned (and your morale high) and it gives your leg a great shape. Dancing in heels is not difficult at all, dancing shoes have heels of a maximum of 2", the heels are thick and the sole is amazingly flexible as it is cut from suede. They are the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn. I'm leaving for Brussels tomorrow early in the morning (7 a.m. flight grrrr) but when back I will post pictures of my dancing shoes.
There are lots of girls who dance in snickers as well, but I find I dance a lot better with a bit of a heel.

Zeva said...

I love that skirt. I believe I have that pattern (but if I don't I'm going to go get it) and the perfect fabric to sew it up with. I love love love the details you put in it. The contrast fabric in the pleats awsome!

Tany said...

Laura, great profissional looking pants and the MOST FABULOUS skirt I saw in a while!! Now I must get that pattern! I love the way you topstitched all the vertical seams and I congratulate you for both these wonderful garments!

gold said...

Love that skirt!!I am going to have to get that pattern.Thanks for giving details on how you made that skirt!Great job!!

dawn said...

Both garments are beautiful and you must make a breathtakingly attractive couple!

The J said...

Gorgeous!!!!!!!

I love it when a fabric shortage causes brilliant inspiration - limits can be so freeing.

Sigrid said...

Laura, when I just saw this skirt I immediately thought of your skirt, the style is different, but look at the topstitching.

http://www.eluxury.com/
estore/browse/product_detail.jsp?
id=11534200

jemima bean said...

FABULOUS skirt! And what a hottie your husband is, LOL :D You are a gorgeous couple!

C. Dishmey said...

You rank a 10 on the Caliente meter!! Awesome rendition on the shirt. Technique was amazing.

Alex said...

The pants and skirt are so great! I'm really enjoying watching your SWAP come together. This one, (and the others) are amazing, and very inspiring!

gema said...

Laura, your skirt is fantastic.
I am fascinated with the trousers you sew for your dh. Where do you purchase that waist lining? I would like to give men's pants sewing a try too. Did you use DPC's cd on how to make the pants especially the fly front?

Penny said...

I love this skirt, you did a fabulous job on the pants and skirt, WOW!!! They look absolutely fabulous on you and your husband!

Morzel: said...

Again, what good ideas! Topstiching the seams looks great!
I wonder what it would look like,using eg. red instead of black for the pleats?
You are so stylish, love to look at your work!

The Mahogany Stylist said...

Laura - Your work is awesome. I especially love your skirt.

Mirela said...

Absolutly gorgeous everything again!!!
Love that skirt a lot, and wish I had the patience to sew pants like that. Your husband is a lucky guy!

Lovely said...

Oh my goodness! You did a beautiful job!!!