Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Not your usual little black dress

Many beautiful dresses have been made using the Roland Mouret-inspired Vogue 8280 pattern. I won't mention any in particular, cause I'm afraid I might forget anyone and not do justice to them.



This is my interpretation of this pattern. I chose the sleeveless version, because I want to be able to dress it down too, by wearing a white t-shirt underneath or a black long-sleeve. This is one of the things that I absolutely love about basics: you can dress them up or down so easily and transform the respective item completely.

The fabric has tiny white dots, I think you can see them in some of the close-ups.

The entire dress is underlined with nylon sheer. The step-by-step tutorial can be found here.

Underlining the top parts was a bit more difficult and this is how I did it: the flange is overlapped with the front and I didn't want that much bulk. I therefore cut the respective part from the front piece, so I can simply sew together the flange and the front.

After sewing the darts on both the fashion fabric and the underlining, I assembled the flange and the front pieces, thus obtaining two finished front pieces: one in the fashion fabric and one in the underlining. I then assembled the shoulders, leaving the side seams opened.

The next step was sewing the side seams of the fashion fabric and underlining together, using the above-mentioned technique of underlining and Hong Kong seam finishing in one. Turned and pressed but not stitched in the ditch yet.

Wrong sides together, I joined the fashion fabric and underlining at the neckline and the armholes. I turned it right side out (you still have the waist seam open), understitched as far as possible. Gave the entire thing a good press and then I sewed in the ditch, finishing the Hong Kong at the side seams. Treating the fabric and the underlining as one, I sewn the back part and the front part at the side seams. To keep everything in place, I stitched in the ditch at the shoulder stitching, thus securing the fashion fabric to the underlining. Kind of hard to explain in "not your maternal language" :).

I added a satin polkadotted ribbon at the waist. It is not meant to be a waist stay, because the dress doesn't need one, but to cover nicely the serged seams. Plus I really love the mix of tiny-tiny dots with bigger dots. I've used the same ribbon to cover and finish the end of the zipper. The hem is bias-bound, as always.





The zipper is put in by hand, using a small backstitch and inserting a small black bead at each stitch - the technique of hand-picking a zipper using beads or not is described by Susan Khalje in this online extra from Threads.



And here's a close-up of the belt.



The two roses are made from white silk and black organza, cut on the bias, plus a black organza ruffle. They are then glued together on a piece of black velvet ribbon. A tutorial and pattern for the roses will follow either today or tomorrow.

32 comments:

Adrienne said...

I have never considered making this dress until now. It is OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!! You look fantastic in it!

Marji said...

I am so freaking speechless.
I want your closet and your wardrobe. (I want to fit into your clothes too, but as they say, people in hades want ice-water).
FABULOUS doesn't even begin to cut it.
Bravo Laura.

AllisonC said...

Well you really are back aren't you! Lots of fabulous inspiring photos and really helpful information in these latest posts - thank you for taking the time to do it. This dress is gorgeous - you have a real knack for choosing clothes that look fabulous on you - though in your case perhaps that's not so difficult!

Erica B. said...

The dress looks fabulous inside and out! Now I want to make another version of this!

RiAnge Creations. Ltd. said...

Wow! Like Marji, I'm speechless. I've always found your blog inspiring.
Angela

Lashell said...

I just purchases that pattern. I love the dress, especailly the inner details.

melissa said...

HAWT!! You're going to get so much wear out of this - I wear my version all the time and it's one of my "Go To" dresses (along with the Go Patterns one) that never fails to make me feel fabulous! I'm interested that you didn't mention Vogue's directions, though, but maybe the view you chose didn't have you flipping all over the place like mine did. It drove me crazy!

And thanks for the beaded zipper link - I don't think I'd have the patience for it, but the results are spectacular.

Summerset said...

Fabulous! Definitely a not-so-basic basic dress! The polka dot ribbon touches on the inside are so perfect; you even lined up the dots just right on the zipper finish!

paco peralta said...

Laura .- afternoon so enjoyable that I am seeing from their posts. Thanks. Well, finally, the dress also wonderful as usual and you add exquisite details as small accounts in the zipper and belt with delicate flowers implemented. It is all very beautiful. Greetings again and see you soon. Paco

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

See now you've done it! You've gone and made me want to thin at least long enough to wear this dress! It is stunningly beautiful! And I love all of the extra details...amazing!

Geri said...

WOW! Laura you are so productive and everything is so perfectly and beautifully finished. I am so impressed!

Alexandra said...

Fabulous! Awesome! Gorgeous! Wow!
And the inside is just as beautiful as the outside.

Emily said...

Just gorgeous! I've had the pattern and some fabric waiting to make up this dress for some time now, and I've mostly been struggling between the sleeveless and the sleeved options. I just love what you've done to the waist as well! The flowers are so cute! Well done!

Lori said...

This is another gorgeous garment, Laura. Like Marji stated, I want your closet and your wardrobe, it is incredible. Thanks for the tutorial and all the links.

Gorgeous Things said...

Fabulous, fantastic and phenomenal!!!

Vicki said...

Oh Laura,this is beautiful! The wait has been well worth it.

I think I can see the answer to my comment on the last post - you have pretty wide seam allowances on the side seams. Is this to be able to give more room if needed?

I think we need to take up a collection so that we can buy you a new camera, so we can really look at your gorgeous creations!!!!!

Maja said...

Oh wow! Absolutely stunning! I want your wardrobe too!

katherine h said...

Oh Laura, I have looked at this pattern so often, but just know that it is not for me. You look absolutely fabulous. Well done.

lavitadream said...

they have a beautiful blog.
a their to work are beautiful
loves greet from germany
xo andy

Angelia said...

Fantastic Laura! Love all your detail as usual! I have looked at this pattern a few times.. I love your version

christina said...

Gorgeous dress, but I've come to expect nothing less from you :)

christina said...

Oh, just wanted to add that the handpicked, beaded zipper is so couture!

jemima bean said...

Laura!! This is GORGEOUS! As are you, as usual :)

Salinda said...

Oh My Goodness! How wonderful! That dress is amazing!

Tany said...

Laura, I love your version of this dress!!! GORGEOUS!!!! This is now my favorite garment from your SWAP wardrobe!

Nina said...

Laura, what a beautiful dress. And you are right, it is an all time basic. Every woman needs a dress like this in her wardrobe.

Mimi Jackson said...

BEEEAUTIFULLL!

Linda said...

Wow, you are so amazing with the additions of embellishments and such. Another great garment. It is always so inspiring to visit your site! I just can't get here enough!

Isabelle said...

Laura, your LBD is awesome! It fits you so perfectly. Just wonderful. You're a wonder-woman, Laura! *gros bisous*

gold said...

I love that dress it looks great on you!!Great job!

Alee said...

I just wanted to let you know that I saw your blog once many months ago and was captivated, but for some reason lost the link. I had my friend over at www.maryjanesfarm.org/snitz searching for your blog all day and they came through for me!

Your skills are amazing! I am in awe. I am just a beginning seamstress and am hoping to pick up a little of your skill by reading your tips and blog entries!

Morzel: said...

Great dress, Laura! It (and you) will make heads turn... ;)