Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Fourth top done

Aqua knit top using Butterick 4737 - I changed the sleeve to a dolman sleeve - see how I did it here.

I used a home made trim again, this time by embellishing a piece of sheer organza ribbon.

I bound the neckline....

And used a triple stitch for the hem, as I was getting a bit tired of my twin needle topstitching.

Copy of my PR review

Butterick 4737

  • Tip: "Home made" trim
  • Tip: Drafting a dolman sleeve for a knit top
  • Tip: Sew a non-stretch trim to a knit top
  • Tip: Wrong and right side of staytape

  • Pattern Description:
    Close-fitting, pullover top has neckline and sleeve variations, purchased ribbon bows and trim. I made view C, but changed the way trim is applied and drafted a dolman sleeve.

    Pattern Sizing:
    6-20. I made a 6.

    Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
    It did, with the modifications mentioned above.

    Were the instructions easy to follow?
    Yes, very easy.

    What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
    I liked the wrap bust part and the underbust seam. it gives the top an Empire waist touch, plus the bust part is very flattering for my B cup.

    Fabric Used:
    Aqua cotton/lycra.

    Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
    I took in the side seams for about 1 cm, I think the pattern is for moderate stretch knits and my fabric was quite stretchy. I changed the sleeve into a dolman sleeve (see my tip with photos on how I did that, if you would like details). I sewed staytape in the shoulder seam (which was longer after "merging" the sleeve and the bodice.

    I bound the neckline instead of sewing trim. I cut away the neckline seam allowance for that. I first staystitched the front necklines and I crowded the back neckline (it was a bit large so I wanted to draw it in). I then sewed a piece of knit, about 3 cm wide, cut on grain to the neckline, stretching very gently, just a tiny bit to cup the neckline. Pressed the seam allowance, turned the knit tape under and sewed in the ditch using my stretch stitch (zigzag 1 mm wide 2.5 cm long). Pressed again and trimmed the tape. It is a non-bulky very clean way to bind your knits.

    I used a piece of sheer organza ribbon, embellished with a decorative stitch and sewn on the underbust seamline. See my tips on making your own trim and sewing non-stretch ribbon to stretch fabric, if you're interested.

    I was getting bored of my twin needle topstitching, therefore I decided to topstitch the hems (sleeves and bodice) using a triplestitch (it's a stretch stitch so it's ok) and I'm quite pleased with the result.

    Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
    I will definitely sew it again, I think it's my third top using this pattern and everytime I found something to change or to embellish. I like this type of versatile pattern, that you can embellish, morph and so on.


    Anonymous said...

    Hi, was just wondering... I see you are good with stitching stretchy material, any tips you could give on that. I have this top I've been wanting to make, but I just can't seem to be able to do it..

    Laura said...

    Hi, Pecquie,
    Sewing knits is not as difficult as it may seem. I'd love to give you tips, but I'm not sure what are your problem or difficulties with that top, maybe you could tell me more?
    What can I say? I use my serger to sew the tops (but you can use your normal sewing machine and a stretch stitch a zigzag 1 mm wide and 2.5 mm long). If you use your sewing machine, make sure you get a stretch needle (size 75) otherwise you'll get plenty of skipped stitches.
    I use a stretch twin needle (size75, distance between needles 2.5) to topstitch my hems, which I fix in place beforehand with steam a seam. I use a lot of binding in the necklines and armholes (I described the technique in this post).
    You can read some tips here:
    Let me know if I can help you further and good luck with your top!

    Tany said...

    I love this top! It's beautiful and very well made! You are building a great wardrobe, Laura!

    Sara said...

    Steam-a-Seam is the secret to your perfect hems? Hmmmm. I'm definitely going to try that. I much prefer the triple stitch over the double-needle. It is more elegant, I think.

    Did you use regular thread, or wooly nylon in your bobbin on the hem?

    (Can you tell I've been very challenged with knit hems lately?)

    Laura said...

    Hi, Sara and welcome to my blog! Steam a seam helps a lot with knits, I'm using it all the time. Just make sure to get that light version that adds no bulk otherwise you will get a stiff seam.
    Haven't used woolly nylon in the bobbin, just regular thread and it worked just fine. I'm planning to try with woolly nylon.

    Sara said...

    Thank you so much, Laura! I really enjoy your blog. You do a terrific job.