Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Not your usual shirt placket :))

Well, I'm working on my second blouse (and third top) for my Timmel SWAP entry, which is the shirt from my wardrobe pattern, Vogue 2813, made in red silk twill (necktie silk).

The shirt is far from being finished (I added a bit of embellishment to the front, and I'm making French seams again) but I'd like to show you how I treated the shirt placket.

Regarding the placket, I know that some bloggers find it difficult, therefore I'd like to point you to two extremely useful tutorial (at least they were for me):

  • Kathleen Fasanella's tutorial: part 1, part 2, part 3 (I've tried this tutorial and loved it, it works great and it is easy)
  • Rusty Bobbin's tutorial for a shirt placket with continuous lap: I haven't tried this one but am looking forward to trying it. It looks easy, logical and the result is beautiful. Her method inspired me for the placket treatment that I'm showing today.
  • I'm waiting for David Coffin's Shirtmaking. It's going to be here soon. As a parenthesis, I bought a few books lately and am currently reading them (Claire Shaffer's Couture Sewing Techniques and High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers: A Step-By-Step Guide to Sewing Stylish Seams, Buttonholes, Pockets, Collars, Hems, And More, Roberta Carr's Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing and Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket). When I buy a sewing book, I read it page by page. I then re-read it many times, by sections, according to the project I'm working on and the information that I need.

Not your usual shirt placket

First, cut a piece for the placket. This needs to be cut on grain, the width is 1' (approx. 2.5 cm), the length is twice the length of your placket slit plus 1' (approx 2.5 cm).

On the wrong side of the sleeve, draw around the slit a rectangle, adding 1/4' on each side of the slit and a supplementary 1/4" at the top, where the slit stops (see my picture below; look at the indigo lines, drawn with my vanishing marker. The white chalk marks are the original pattern marks. And sorry for the wonky lines, they are actually straight, but I moved the silk by mistake before taking the picture).

Now cut your slit open with really sharp scissors. You cut a straight line which is the length of your original slit (without the additional 1/4" at the top) and then, at the top, you cut diagonally to the top of the rectangle, like you would for a welt pocket.

You can see the cut below. I spread the sleeve so you can see accurately how I cut.

Now, take your placket and fold 1/4" on one long edge. Press.

Put the placket's right side (the unfolded edge aligned to the slit) to the sleeve's wrong side , and sew continuously: one side of the slit, the cut triangle, the other side of the slit. See the result below (the circle points you to the sewn triangle).

Press your seam allowances towards your placket. It should look like this:

Now fold the placket and wrap it over your seam allowances, bringing the pre-folded edge to the right side of the sleeve (make sure you cover the stitching).

Press. At the top of the rectangle, form a peak with your finger and press in place. It should look like this:

Now you're ready to sew. Edgestitch (an edgestitching foot helps) the placket and you're done.

Finished placket

Wrong side of the placket


cidell said...

SWEET! There's a blouse from the April 04 BWOF that has a similar placket I've been avoiding. Thanks!

Summerset said...

Interesting - I've done many plackets, but none exactly like that. Thanks for the tutorial.

Berry said...

That's a technique I haven't tried yet, thanks for taking time to write a tuto. Have a lovely day!

Angelia said...

Great tutorial! Your attention to detail is always tops!
I look forward to seeing this done!

Erica Bunker said...

That's a very interesting placket. I've never done one like this either. Thanks for the tutorial!

Christina said...

I could have used this a few months ago! Thanks for sharing.

Vicki said...

I have all those books and love them all. David Coffin's is my latest and I am currently reading that.

Tany said...

I have all those books and I love them! Like you I read them cover to cover!

Well done on this tutorial! I've never seen it done exactly like that but I like the end result very much!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

First - I love the list of books that you bought! To me a well rounded sewing library is imperative!

Second - thanks for the kewl tutorial!

Sew-4-Fun said...

Interesting! It's kind of a cross between a continuous lap and placket. I've never used or seen this method before so thanks for the tutorial. I'll give it a try.

Sigrid said...

New to me too. Thanks for the pictures and explanation.

I have some of the books you mention, great bed-time reading. Roberta Carr and the Tailoring book are my latest buys. Wonderful books.

doracouture su misura said...

Thank you!That's technique is dora

Beth H said...

Pretty! I want to give that a try, too. Thanks.

Anonymous said...

I too have done many plackets, but this technique looks new to me too.
Thanks for the tutorial. Can't wait to see the finished shirt.
Where does one find silk (tie) twill? You seem to ALWAYS have the most interesting fabric.

BCN - UNIQUE designer patterns said...

Laura, thanks for the tutorial, it is very interesting this kind of opening. I had knowledge of this system, but he never practiced, keep your explanations. Greetings and thanks. Paco

Anonymous said...

Delurking here to finally say that ALL of your garments are just exquisite, Laura! I love to see the beautiful things you make. This placket is no exception -- beautiful. I have a question, tho, probably because I'm just being dense :>) When you show the little placket (strip) before you sew it on the sleeve, it's suppose to be cut at 1/2? But then you fold in 1/4" on one side and it looks (at least in the picture) that there is about 1/2" left unfolded? I guess I'm not understanding the dimensions here, please forgive me. Thanks !

Dawn said...

All of your clothing is wonderful! I tagged you from my blog because you are one of my favorite blogs! Thanks for putting up such detailed posts of your garments.

Maja said...

Thank you for a wonderful tutorial! I'm posting on your blog for the first time and I really admire your work.

Anonymous said...

Laura, your tutorial! is very useful especially for beginners like me. Thanks a lot. This is my first time and I really enjoy your tutorial.

take a peep at my blog and feel free to give comments.

Thanks (in Malay "TERIMA KASIH")

Ann said...

I love how the placket has been done and will be trying out soon. Do you have to make smaller seams on your cuffs so they will fit the cuff opening as one side is not folded back as you do in the regular placket?

Forgetmenot said...

Thanks so much! Your photos make it much clearer

Sylvia said...

SOOOO HELPFUL! I'm making a tunic and just fudged the placket the other night... will definitely redo it.