Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Timmel SWAP items #3 and #4

The top that I'm going to show you was done a week ago but I was under a very tight deadline with a boring and loathsome report and didn't take pictures. The jeans were done over the weekend.

So, without further ado, item #3 - NYU (not your usual) wrap top: Burda 01/2008, top 116

It's a blurry picture, sorry for that. I say it is not your usual wrap top because the panel in front that simulates a camisole is cut out of a black cotton/lycra, the rest is cut in a black and white knit and, to tie it on with my general black-white-red theme and in order to avoid too much black, I bound the entire neckline and the sleeves with red cotton lycra. I took a picture to show-you a close-up of the binding but I don't know how, the picture simply disappeared from my camera! How is that possible?

The ties were a bit too short (wished I read the reviews on PR and found out about that before I cut it... ) so I'm tying them in the back not the front. Also, I wish I didn't finish this top before Debbie Cook finished and published hers - look what an ingenious idea for the ties! This is great, Debbie, I'll surely use this for the next top.



And here is a better picture of the top. For a more extravagant look, it can be tied in front, with a bow.




Even with the application of binding, it still is a quick and rewarding project. But... it does require quite a lot of fabric, I had to be really creative about it as the black and white knit was a remnant.

Item #4 - NYU jeans



These are copied from my favorite RTW jeans. I had them for more than 4 years and I wore them to death. The most flattering jeans I've ever had. They will soon be unwearable and I plan to make at least two more pairs this year. I decided to make the first pair in black, with tone-on-tone topstitching and embellishment (see below for embellishment) because I wanted a dressier pair of jeans, one that I could wear with anything, including my Chanel-style jacket.

Why are these not your usual jeans?
First, because of the fabric - it is denim but made out of linen, viscose and elasthane. Looks pretty dressy and has a bit of sheen.
Second, because of the back pocket treatment. Stole an idea from another pair of RTW jeans and instead of applying patch pockets, I made inseam pockets (in the seam joining the back yoke to the back jean), with a pocket bag in the shape of a jean pocket and with only partial topstitching on the right side - take a look, pictures speak better than my English :)



The wrong side of the jeans, showing the pocket bag




And third, because of the embellishment done on the pocket, using heirloom/hemstitch techniques by machine. I found this great resource, containing a wealth of fact sheets (pdf format), I've printed almost all of them and made a separate file. They are so great that last night, when I finally got my copy of Handsewn by Machine (ordered at the end of December) I found I already knew almost everything in the book, thanks to these fact sheets. Here is a link to the techniques (you'll get a list of files not your usual website, but the name of those files is pretty relevant). And here is the link to the fact sheet that I've used - it is a heirloom hemstitched applique.

What I did: starch well (I finally found a good spray starch) a piece of organza, hooped it (if I don't hoop it, I get a lot of channeling), drew with chalk a rectangle that would fit into my machine (that rectangle was enough to cut out two leaves - I've used the leaf in the fact sheet as a template) and covered the rectangle with a Venetian hemstitch (sorry, but I cannot find a drawing of this hemstitch), using silk thread in the needle. The first rectangle took forever (you need some practice) but the second rectangle took only 30 minutes. Oh, and I couldn't find a wing needle here (I absolutely must find an online supply for wing needles and white silk thread, they are impossible to find here) and I used the largest needle that I have - size 11o. Worked just fine - the idea is to have a needle large enough to leave holes in the fabric.

Here is the unhooped rectangle, with the stitching done:



I then drew the leaf shapes on the rectangle, stitched around them with a straight stitch and cut them out, just outside the stitched outline. Used a spray adhesive (another thing that I must find online) to attach a piece of wash-away stabilizer to the back of the pocket. I then appliqued the leaves to the pocket. It is a corded applique and for that I've used my three hole cording foot, a strand of black pearl cotton and a satin stitch (2.5 mm width, 0.4 mm length) to stitch the leaf to the jeans. I then outlined the entire applique with a pinstitch. Isn't it beautiful?



And a close up of the front pocket. I used again snaps instead of rivets - can't find decent jean rivets here, but these snaps work just great.

31 comments:

Tany said...

My friend, you are sewing genius! I love your top but the pants are a masterpiece! I just love the back pocket detail and what you did for the embellishment! I bow to you, Laura, these are magnificent!

Lashell said...

I love the back pocket detail of your jeans and the embellishment you used on them.

Nina said...

Both items are looking great.
What pattern is the other black/green shirt?
Best regards, Nina

Emily said...

I love both of these garments. The pants/jeans are so ingenious -- making a dressy pair of jeans is such a brilliant idea!

Adrienne said...

WOW!!! I love those pants!!!!!

Summerset said...

Both items are great! You've beat me to these items, because I am making the same or similar for my SWAP. I am making the same BWOF top, but in a white/red print and I'm making dressier jeans in a lightweight wool, possibly lined. I love your back pocket - very clever and great embellishment.

Anonymous said...

Great work, wonderful design ideas - and it all looks so good on you. What an inspiration your blog is!
Miriam

Anonymous said...

I look your blog everyday.I love your creativity,precision,good taste

christina said...

The jeans - wow - sooooo inspirational. And I like your alternative way of tying the wrap top. Your SWAP is looking great!

Rose said...

Wow! I have always enjoyed reading your blog and seeing your lovely masterpieces! I love your interpretation of the this! I like the red binding--it makes the lines of the top really 'pop'! I'm curious-what does the back of the top look like? I was thinking of combining fabrics (stretch mesh and velour) in a similar way, but I couldn't figure out how best to do it.

Nancy K said...

I agree, a sewing genius! The jeans are just fabulous. I love the back pocket detail. The top looks great. This seems to be a popular top for the SWAP. I am making one in a black and silver jersey. Fortunately, I read the part about adding to the length before cutting!

Vicki said...

Laura, you are the jeans expert! The topstitching, and the applique are perfect. You amaze me with what you do!!

Oh, and the top is pretty cute too ;)

Anonymous said...

I love what you've done here. Your top is lovely, but the pants are amazing! And thanks for posting such a great link with such a wealth of information. How on earth did you find it?
--Linda

dora said...

Very beautiful your trench.Meraviglioso!

Alexandra said...

Totally gorgeous! Very interesting back pocket treatment. Love the appliqué.

Lori said...

Laura, both garments are incredible. I love the idea of the embellishment on the jeans and the in-seam pocket. Your SWAP is spectacular.

Susan said...

Laura, another group of winners. The jeans are really great and I loved your reference sites. Hope you can tell me how much stretch your knit for the cami top had? How far did four inches stretch? Crazy I know, but I have a piece of fabric I would love to use but I am not sure it has enough stretch.

What an inspiration you are!

Susan W

LauraLo said...

Thank you so much for such appreciative comments! You can't imagine how much this kind of feedback motivates me for sewing more and better!
Nina, the black/green shirt is not made by me, but reconstructed. Took a simple black top, long-sleeved and too short. Cut and re-hemmed the sleeves, cut a square neckline, added the green lace (which is stretch) and the green applique - store-bought.
Miriam, welcome to my blog! Are you HawkeMorningstar?
Rose, the back of the top (I'll try and take a picture) is a the white/black knit all-over.
Linda, I found all this information by googling for "hemstitching" :) Lucky me, I guess.
Susan, I will measure how much my knit stretches, what I can tell you is that it's very stretchy, about 75% stretch.

Katrin said...

Laura, you create such great garments. I absolutely adore the blue trench, the embellishment of the jeans and....just everything.
I learned that you have a fulltime job, do salsa dancing -so -when are you doing all this wonderful sewing work ?

As regards the wingneedle...I think it is no problem to get one here. If you want me to do so, just send me an e-mail.

Best wishes,
Katrin

Renée said...

Hello, I am new on your blog and it is wonderful. You are agreat sewer and the clothes you make fits you like a glove.Keep up the good work.

Anonymous said...

Laura,
You are a genius! Very talented. I have been watching your blog for updates every day this week since I found it. I havent been able to sew for a year as I am away from home working on a boat (currently in Palma), so I am living my passion through your sewing. Your sewing is amazing and your blog is great. Very informative and helpful.
Cant wait to see more

Susan C said...

Laura - Love both the top and the jeans. Can I ask a couple of questions? Your wrap top looks shorter than Debbie's I think? Did you cut some length off or did she add length? I love the red piping (?) its very cool. How did you do that? I also love your jeans. When you say in-seam pockets, do you know of a tutorial anywhere that shows how to do that? Those jeans and the embellishment really are awesome!

Also, did you make the black top with lace trim? It looks really nice!

Melissa said...

More gorgeous garments, awesome work!!!

Linda said...

Love, love, love, the top and the jeans!!! You do such great work and you are so inspiring. You can really work those numerous stitches on your machine and come up with something really nice.

Great job!

ConnieB said...

By the time I finished reading this entry I knew there would be mege comments! I did not like that BWOF top till I saw yours! The pants are fabulouso! That embroidery is so lovely on the pockets. Your SWAP is looking to be a sure winner!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Laura absolutely beautiful. I love what you have done to the jeans...and you do outstanding work copying....that could be a whole post of it's own ;)
Thank you for posting the information on all the different stitches, definetely a good find.Ann

laura said...

You really should start your own How-To videos. I would be the first in line to buy them! I really mean it.You could do from beginning to end tutorials. One garment per video. Starting at your tracing techniques, pattern fitting, interfacing choices, whether to line or not to line ect...

Trina said...

Hi, new to your blog. I'm Trina. Wanted to say you are VERY VERY talented and I love all of your creations. Look forward to seeing more.

gold said...

Those jeans and top are fabulous!!You did a great job!!

Marji said...

it's all been said, but I wanted to add my 'bravos' to the mix.
Your attention to detail and your individual touches are making this the SWAP to-die-for. Not to mention you'll have the 10 essential wardrobe items! ;)
I love what you've done with the "hemstitching" and without a wing needle...amazing.

Berry said...

I never thought one could tie that type of top this way, great idea and your jeans are great. Sometimes I wish I could be a tiny mouse to see you work. There must be some magic in all that!