Monday, February 11, 2008

My famous blue raincoat :)

(title of a Leonard Cohen song that I love)

Now... some girls have a Birkin bag. Some girls have a Kelly.
But I am the happy owner of a Tany trenchcoat!

When I saw this picture, I thought immediately of the midnight blue taffeta that Tany sent me a while ago. This is one of the reasons for which the trenchcoat is named after her. The other reasons... do I really need to mention them? Besides being an inspiration for many of us, she is such a warm, supportive, lovely person.

Burda WOF 02/2008, 117 Coat:



I loved the "runway" look of this trench the minute I saw it. The volume in the skirt (a big trend for this spring/summer) , the shirring in the waist, the lapels with a collar with stand... all these details attracted me. The 20 rows of topstitching on the hem portion of the coat give the effect of a petticoat underneath. If you don't want that much volume on you, you could easily skip the topstitching on the hem. Without it, the coat drapes at the hem instead of standing away from the body and it looks beautiful that way too.

Speaking of topstitching, this was a very time-consuming project (I again forgot to keep track of the time I spent on this project):
  • There are 8 rows of shirring in the waist. I used a tubular elastic for that, encased in a zigzag stitch (4 mm width, 3 mm length). My pearl and piping foot helped a lot, the elastic fitted in it perfectly
  • There are 20 rows of topstitching on the hem (spaced at 1 cm apart/approx 3/8 inch), plus 10 rows of topstitching on each sleeve cuff. I used a silk thread for the topstitching.


  • To make my life even more beautiful, I decided to add another 10 rows of topstitching on the collar and 10 rows on each lapel. It did seem like this project will never ed (sooo much topstitching) but it was worthwhile to add topstitching on the collar and lapels. Not only it ties in with the hem and cuffs, but it gives better shape and structure to the collar and lapels. If you look in the Burda pictures, you can see that their lapels are a bit floppy.
  • This coat is unlined. At first I wanted to line it with a beautiful blue satin I had in my stash, but I realized that with all the shirring at the waist, lining the coat could mean some bulkier stiff gathers and I didn't want that on my petite frame. The coat being unlined, I used a Hong Kong finish on the seams (cutting bias strips from the blue satin) and I bound the pockets.
  • The trench is fastened with snaps, handsewn. I eliminated the first two pairs/rows of snaps because I knew I would never wear my coat buttoned to the collar, I want it to have lapels. But I did add another three pairs of snaps after the last one (the Burda snaps stop at mid-thigh) because guess what... This trench can easily be worn as a dress as well! I wouldn't want to show that much thigh :), so more snaps were in order.
  • I've added another snap at the waist, at mid-way between the bust row of snaps and the second one, which is a bit below waist. If you look at the enlarged Burda pictures, there is some strange gaping at the waist. I got the same gaping, it is due to the snaps placing, but the additional snap at the waist solved this problem.

51 comments:

Shannon said...

That clour of blue is beautiful on you. What a lovely new coat/dress - awesome work as usual!

Adrienne said...

WOW!!!!! TDF!!!!!!! JUst BEAUTIFUL!

Debbie Cook said...

Gorgeous!! Wonderful details and such a nice color on you.

Lori said...

This is so stunning and the color great on you. Love the shoes, too.

Angelia said...

You always make the most awesome clothes.. but I think you've out did yourself on this one! The attention to detail is stunning...
About how long did it take you to make this with all these details!!
Its so elegant! I also didn't know that top stitching something like that would give it volume.. very cool!

Zoubida said...

Great work! I love how your version turned out better than the one featured on Burda (in my opinion). I prefer the way you treated the collar and if I ever have enough courage to tackle this project, will use that idea to topstitch it. The blue taffeta is stunning.

cidell said...

This is just FABULOUS. Totally takes my breath away!

Alexandra said...

Absolutely gorgeous! You are always such an inspiration!

Lisa Laree said...

Laura, that's GORGEOUS!!!! It *does* look very 'runway'...and that's my favorite color in the whole world. It looks great on you. Very well done!

Summerset said...

ABSOULUTELY GORGEOUS! Fantastic workmanship. We both have "Tany coats" now, yours is blue and mine is red!

Beatrice said...

What a great coat! And what a great color for you! Suits you very well.

Tany said...

OMG, Laura, GORGEOUS!!!!!!!!! This model is on my list too! THANK YOU for the honor of naming this outstanding piece of wardrobe after me! I knew you would turn this fabric into something unforgettable and fabulous! Just BREATHTAKING!

Sarah said...

Your trench coat is amazing. I was just thumbing through that issue of BWOF last night and was wondering about that trench coat, how it come together and what it would turn out like. Well, now I know! The style if fabulous on you!

Lashell said...

OMG!!!! You just made my dream jacket. That is one of jackets I want to include in my mini spring line. You did a beautiful job. It actually looks better than the one in the Burda Book.

Nina said...

WOW! Just gorgeous! And i love the blue.

Emily said...

This is just gorgeous. I love the midnight blue color. Beautiful job!

Liana said...

This is just stunning, Laura! So much nicer than the WOF version. All your care and extra work has really paid off. You look like a runway escapee. :)

loopylulu said...

My jaw literally dropped when I saw this. Everything about this works together so well, the color, all that topstitching, the shoes!

christina said...

Laura, your work never fails to amaze me. I love that you are calling this the Tany Trenchcoat - a very sophisticated and luxurious item, indeed!

Vicki said...

Wow, Laura, this is just stunning! And matching shoes - perfect!

Reethi said...

This is just so amazing! And not only that, but seriously, how quickly did you do this? I haven't even looked at my Feb issue yet, to decide what to sew. I'm in awe...

Kathryn aka fzxdoc said...

OK. Now I can die happy. Anyone who combines Leonard Cohen with a trenchcoat has reached perfection. If I wasn't so happily married, I would have chased after Leonard Cohen long ago. Lord knows I've made my share of trenchcoats. This one is absofrigginlutely gorgeous, Laura! Thank you, thank you for the inspiration.

Kathryn

robyn said...

That. Is. Beautiful.

Cherie said...

Laura, stunning and chic, there you have it. A work of art. I knew when I voted for you in last year's Timmel SWAP that you were immensely talented, but, but...you leave me speechless!

Susan said...

AMAZING WORK!!!Truly gorgeous.

AllisonC said...

Wow that is just stunning and I'm also amazed how quickly you got this sewn up. Truly inspiring, thank you!

a little sewing on the side said...

Laura, congratulations on creating such a beautiful garment, you will surely attract attention in this! Your work just keeps getting better and better. I had the same thought about top-stitching the collar and lapels - it looks MUCH better this way. Thanks for all the detail photos and tips.

Erica B. said...

Everything is fabulous!

Linda said...

Laura, I hope you don't mind, but I had to post a link to this coat on Stitches Guild. I absolutely love your coat. It is inspiring and looks beautiful on you. I hope the weather is right there so that you can wear it now.

rosanne said...

Laura, your coat is unbelievably gorgeous! Admittedly, I was uninspired by the photo and how sort of frumpy it made the model look. But your interpretation is just ecstatic! I love the blue taffeta! The shirring is amazing and the top stitching! Just gorgeous! It seems no one can gush enough! Congrats on such a gem for your wardrobe. You are such a trend setter! Question: did you use batting under the top stitched parts?

LauraLo said...

Thank you, thank you so much for your comments! You really made my evening and my day!
Zoubida, Sara, Reethie, Kathyrn aka fzxdoc (I admire you a lot, you know), Nina, Rosanne, Linda (forgive me if I forgot anyone), welcome to my blog!
Kathryn aka fzxdoc, I'm sharing the same love you have for Leonard Cohen. I adore his songs, love his lyrics to death and find him one of the most charming men on earth :)
Rosanne, my Burda mentioned no batting (but then the Romanian translation is so awful and inaccurate...) but I saw in the layout drawings that some parts are interfaced. I therefore used a fusible interfacing on the cuffs, hem facing, collar (both collar and stand) and lapel facing.
Linda, not only I don't mind you posting a link, but I am honored and grateful, thank you! Unhappily, it is far too cold for such a trench here right now, I will have to wait until April to actually wear it.

Lisa Horwitz said...

Laura, It is dark, grey and pouring down rain here in Miami, but just seeing your beautiful trench this morning makes me wish I had my version finished, let alone started! Enjoy it, you look stunning in it. Next, to look up the lyrics to the inspirational song.

Lisa (Sweet Petite) said...

Laura, It is dark, grey and pouring down rain here in Miami, but just seeing your beautiful trench this morning makes me wish I had my version finished, let alone started! Enjoy it, you look stunning in it. Next, to look up the lyrics to the inspirational song.

Lisa (Sweet Petite) said...

Laura, It is dark, grey and pouring down rain here in Miami, but just seeing your beautiful trench this morning makes me wish I had my version finished, let alone started! Enjoy it, you look stunning in it. Next, to look up the lyrics to the inspirational song.

yaiAnn said...

Your coat is amazing! It's so beautiful! Great job!

LauraLo said...

Lisa (Sweet Petite) and yaiAnn, welcome to my blog! YaiAnn, that pie on your site... yummy... I'm such a sucker for sweets...
Robyn, now I know who my mysterious Dallas visitor is :) I thought it was my mother in law, she lives in Plano...

Lisa (Sweet Petite said...

Obviouslly not enough coffeee this morning. Sorry for the triple posts.
Lisa

paco peralta said...

Laura .- always surprised us with such garments so fabulous. This trench-coat I love the material and I feel wonderful. What is it about? Seems a tafetán but looks strong (no need for lining). Congratulations on the work of sewing, is magnificent and admirable. An inspiration for those who taste of the original and unique. Very nice too knot with the blouse and jeans (the pockets are very original, really) Hugs, Paco

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Laura I absolutely love your coat/dress.....beautiful and stunning. Very well done! Perfect shoes to match :)

Melissa said...

I have no idea what more I can add that hasn't already been said. Your work is impeccable Laura. The color is divine and the style is just so on-point. You always impress me girl! :-)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is absolutely fantastic! Amazing work and simply stunning construction details...I can imagine that you were sooooo tired of topstitching when you finally finished this...and the coat is an awesome color, too!

Tini said...

perfect colour on you!!! so gorgeous. I think I might need a tany coat too!

Barb said...

That coat is absolutely beautiful!!! You chose the right fabric and did a wonderful job in construction. And...that it can be worn as a dress, too, when does it stop, LOL.

cbjses said...

Oh Laura! What beautiful work -- you are an inspiration!

Nancy W. said...

I love this Laura. I have had this coat on my to do list ever since I got my Feb issue last week. You are fast! What fabric did you use for yours? It looks very elegant. I like how you added the topstitching at the lapel. I may do the same thing. Your projects are always such an inspiration!

LMH said...

Absolutely super gorgeous; I love the fabric, the construction, everything. And it looks wonderful on you!

Bettsi McComb said...

So absolutely beautiful! I love everything about it- color, fabric, style, shirring, topstitching. Gorgeous!

Marji said...

Laura, that is BREATHTAKING! gorgeous! I can't think of enough adjectives, superlatives...
Love the color, the fabric, the styling. It's wonderful.
AND...I'm having real issues with the whole switchover on email right now - but yes, it came. I'm touched, and honored. I'll find a way to write later, but wanted to let you know.
oh, new email
marjorie at farniente dot us

dawn said...

Wow! And the topstitching...perfect!

Berry said...

It is amazingly stunning! You must feel like a real princess wearing it. And you have matching shoes... What can I add that haven't been said? Bravo!

Isabelle said...

Laura, I have missed out on SO much.
Your rendition of the trench is fabulissima!! I can even less wait to make mine, now.

Thank you for giving so many details, they will be much helpful. Did you use the recommended interfacig - Vlieseline volumineuse? I have no idea what that is.

After that, we *shall* have to meet and strut the streets in our matching trenches, you know. We'll just have to. (although mine probably won't look as perfect as yours!)