tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-66406729858105583082024-03-07T02:03:46.034-08:00Laura's sewing roomLauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.comBlogger109125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-21611619146975268772011-06-28T00:55:00.000-07:002011-06-28T00:55:49.089-07:00The man who changed my life...... and my sleep pattern. The little guy is still waking a lot at night.<br />
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I will try, I promise, to write a bit more, but I don't know when. My days and hands are full with the little guy who's far from being a good sleeper and is teething canines right now.<br />
I miss you all. And I miss sewing so bad that I'm dreaming about it at night :)LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com51tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-16718080008919728302010-07-26T02:11:00.000-07:002010-07-26T02:11:58.338-07:00My baby is hereMy baby boy was in a hurry to come into this world, so on 25 June, at 36 weeks, he barely waited for his father to come back from Germany and take me to the hospital. His name is Matei (Matthew) and he is now 1 month old. It might take a while till I can sew and/or blog again, as he is a colicky baby, but here he is, my little one:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPslGiA5jkzslYD0Rs_KkzRjZrvQKreFMw-0Zsl71E18W289ngzA9mim3ALtWVt2mGlBygIuwNLbWWfck-N_jQL8y_UNMVmyvf9PTp-OnGN3Hdfr1ndRN5M9fBMT4nMP3SY7WVg4f5u7og/s1600/matei+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPslGiA5jkzslYD0Rs_KkzRjZrvQKreFMw-0Zsl71E18W289ngzA9mim3ALtWVt2mGlBygIuwNLbWWfck-N_jQL8y_UNMVmyvf9PTp-OnGN3Hdfr1ndRN5M9fBMT4nMP3SY7WVg4f5u7og/s320/matei+036.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIpAlucp6jXCvQfMfE8HY5eQVf2fnyFrr_Zx41zslxbFGvisjqRrn1KWkU12Uyn5xlBiEobARyW_b_jlm_NFC2FXeCCNmhSP4JmTvGl4afWike4En97SEeMmaJcGr3cawa83fWmmQ4Ie5c/s1600/Matei+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIpAlucp6jXCvQfMfE8HY5eQVf2fnyFrr_Zx41zslxbFGvisjqRrn1KWkU12Uyn5xlBiEobARyW_b_jlm_NFC2FXeCCNmhSP4JmTvGl4afWike4En97SEeMmaJcGr3cawa83fWmmQ4Ie5c/s320/Matei+032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com94tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-69391681681469505632010-02-26T01:31:00.000-08:002010-02-26T01:31:24.740-08:00News<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIFnIlhn8wrmj6czlm6BO5mkMhC7dcbP_LyxLWtWPczK5AHxzwWqKWJ5DwUbUGLvIzODDvOQmJ7Gxofh2RnEcOZegP2-fO9PF-XPwm4UIpdb4KLAJnCHkDRonhvMTtgAGkICfKcHCRI8/s1600/brassy+apple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIFnIlhn8wrmj6czlm6BO5mkMhC7dcbP_LyxLWtWPczK5AHxzwWqKWJ5DwUbUGLvIzODDvOQmJ7Gxofh2RnEcOZegP2-fO9PF-XPwm4UIpdb4KLAJnCHkDRonhvMTtgAGkICfKcHCRI8/s320/brassy+apple.jpg" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yes, 20 weeks pregnant and having a boy!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com90tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-1856847715730373802009-03-06T00:20:00.000-08:002009-03-06T00:23:48.186-08:00I'm not dead nor sick. I'm just having a very busy and very hard time. I haven't sewn a single stitch since October last year. Please bear with me, I'm really not in the right shape for blogging/writing right now and the lack of time is also killing me.<br />Thank you so much for thinking of me, writing me emails and giving me awards, that does help a lot and it touches me deeply.<br />I'll do my best and try to post next week. I miss you all.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com82tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-17194113578919620182008-10-02T01:51:00.000-07:002008-10-03T05:55:56.092-07:00White and black trenchcoat<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNhsxYnL6IemSYN5ntQMKkMD_J6aYpZYBcxsXTz3_9Ze6gDntagJ5GKC-K3PVIaEd0QgRs-FR2r4UJ8_gRVKDQOzniibxJi9UPWYY9TD3bSz26NvnaguL2lBGU_k9MEdFtOo5pbjXueCgu/s1600-h/DSCN0025.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNhsxYnL6IemSYN5ntQMKkMD_J6aYpZYBcxsXTz3_9Ze6gDntagJ5GKC-K3PVIaEd0QgRs-FR2r4UJ8_gRVKDQOzniibxJi9UPWYY9TD3bSz26NvnaguL2lBGU_k9MEdFtOo5pbjXueCgu/s400/DSCN0025.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252895897246643602" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTKPOKBaW1Vgj3kiz9P3Btm1lsYWfTNKu45qWITviQcXtVsALgkRYs4NnQQeEiff7Z0uSrudmGVYrHAymK3EPgpiuIlf6ZqLYYkYRrFyFE5lu91MXGVeKnUjiNv4uLacS7gMIkOdWo0v86/s1600-h/DSCN0021.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTKPOKBaW1Vgj3kiz9P3Btm1lsYWfTNKu45qWITviQcXtVsALgkRYs4NnQQeEiff7Z0uSrudmGVYrHAymK3EPgpiuIlf6ZqLYYkYRrFyFE5lu91MXGVeKnUjiNv4uLacS7gMIkOdWo0v86/s400/DSCN0021.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252476900599634818" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now, don't ask me how I got the idea for this trenchcoat because I really cannot remember. All I know is that it obsessed me my entire holidays, it was taking shape into my mind and I was really looking forward to get back and start sewing again. Funny because I used the last week of my holidays to give a very thorough cleaning to our apartment - you know, when you move every piece of furniture to clean underneath?. I sometimes get urges like that to clean everything and put it in order, it is a bit like putting order in my entire life or starting fresh and clean (I'm born in autumn and tend to view autumn as a beginning, I know it might seem strange). So I only started to work on the trench after I got back to work.<br /><br />I really love trenchcoats (especially fitted) and can't have enough of them, plus I wanted very much a white trenchcoat. I love white coats (even if they have to be washed or cleaned very often) and I like how I look in white.<br /><br />Taking into account that I spent a lot lately on sewing notions and gadgets, stocking up on things harder to find, I decided I'd better shop my own stash for fabric and patterns - I have quite a lot already. There was no trenchcoat pattern in my stash, not for a classic trenchcoat, but more modern interpretations. The only pattern coming close to what I wanted was this Burda pattern - coat <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/124_His_Parka_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1553271-1553273-1553306-1553308.html" target="_blank"">111 </a>from BWOF 10/2007. A coat pattern. Now, I had to downsize the pattern anyway, I'm a 34 in Burda and the coat is 36-44. A coat has a lot more ease than a trenchcoat, especially a fitted trenchcoat like I wanted and one in a pretty summery/early fall fabric (a thin cotton twill). I normally would have pulled one of my patternmaking books and try to see what is the ease in a coat and what in a fitted early fall coat, but I have no idea what kind of ease Burda uses (I think there are several "schools" in the field...) I thought a solution would be to downsize another size, thus going from 36 to 32. I'm not really sure this is the wise way to do it, but it does make sense in a way. By going down a size, you decrease the width, you get higher armholes, you decrease the width of the sleeve as well etc.<br /><br />I must confess, blushing with shame, that I didn't make a muslin. I know, I should have. But I had two reasons: 1) Burda patterns fit me really well and most of the time I have no alterations to make (except the petite alteration that I always do, using <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Service/Workshop/Workshop_Shortening_patterns/1000001-1487353-1021875.html" target="_blank"">this </a>Burda workshop); 2) I get so obsessed with a project that I literally cannot wait to see it starting to take shape.<br /><br />So, now to the "technical" details. The coat is made out of a thin cotton twill. The topstitching is done by hand, using multi-strand embroidery floss (all of the six strands) and a 0.5 mm (approx 1/4") running stitch, situated at 1 cm (approx 3/8") from the edge. There's topstitching on the pocket flaps, the belt, the lapels collar, front edge and hem of the trench, the back center seam (including the vent), the back sleeve seam.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTTBF7teT0uTOsS28r_eHX1wPpm-zGyBr6TOVCr9SMQa8rPT4737IfQmuRID6BDEyCm0Pvyi7-g4JQKJenXJG3S3vumTW2C1w3T_ZiBeG3aZ5QHhmJwtyfh8CmTUBX9nLdZNWfzoFQNo6/s1600-h/DSCN0026.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTTBF7teT0uTOsS28r_eHX1wPpm-zGyBr6TOVCr9SMQa8rPT4737IfQmuRID6BDEyCm0Pvyi7-g4JQKJenXJG3S3vumTW2C1w3T_ZiBeG3aZ5QHhmJwtyfh8CmTUBX9nLdZNWfzoFQNo6/s400/DSCN0026.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252476906946134530" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIw_yQEm2a0yoBwHsxIoJDbnfA3KNCi5z-eWWP3WMCVfqi05aP5NwQwJRxIKXUC1c8DcpitbTc_8zrAI5ZymjmyheedRmbiCfypiMexOiQmxbMxAY-uhsW76KbcmY-oZzm2JL5X9hLoJ4Q/s1600-h/DSCN0036.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIw_yQEm2a0yoBwHsxIoJDbnfA3KNCi5z-eWWP3WMCVfqi05aP5NwQwJRxIKXUC1c8DcpitbTc_8zrAI5ZymjmyheedRmbiCfypiMexOiQmxbMxAY-uhsW76KbcmY-oZzm2JL5X9hLoJ4Q/s400/DSCN0036.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252477315880027618" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I've used Diva Ann's tutorial for making a welt pocket using an organza "window"- see the tutorial <a href="http://gorgeousthings.blogspot.com/2007/02/not-so-instant-replay-welt-pockets.html" target="_blank"">here </a>and was very happy with the result. See below how clean it looks:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGH0YKRnwl4Vm5b2HCjeD0eNkVfE-q86F7d4PBpMuOzdt3UOxwLaW-F2YrWoVEfJ_cGPHiBLr494SmjQhF_WTl6gjUX24eNSqYtRZwvQ7nh4tExV4925xjiYihUcPOAG9ECUsWensK5pOM/s1600-h/DSCN0029.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGH0YKRnwl4Vm5b2HCjeD0eNkVfE-q86F7d4PBpMuOzdt3UOxwLaW-F2YrWoVEfJ_cGPHiBLr494SmjQhF_WTl6gjUX24eNSqYtRZwvQ7nh4tExV4925xjiYihUcPOAG9ECUsWensK5pOM/s400/DSCN0029.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252477311121942482" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I've used <span style="font-size:100%;">my </span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span id="btAsinTitle" style=""><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589232305/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223028352&sr=1-1" target="_blank"">Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket</a> book for fusing various types of interfacing to the garment, interfacing the lapels and sewing the collar. Great info, I really like this book.<br /><br /></span></span>For bagging the lining, I've used (again), Kathleen Fasanella's series of<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/tutorials/the-nameless-tutorial-series-lined-jackets/" target="_blank""> Nameless tutorials</a>. Really, once you try her method, I doubt you'll ever want to use another. Look how clean (and entirely by machine, no handstitching) the finish of the lining+facing at the hem:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mwkiUlCh-y8vCXwKwhvh_EXr4tLjyqaPA3kivv6kNpS_7O2tvO7Bt-9wuYhN245jtKANhjZmRZU9G0lZWiFWcaCIobSOotAMdvkO3qfqH7iBuTXg63iZBsTIPJLFBRY_3n-A8CmzTrRH/s1600-h/DSCN0020.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mwkiUlCh-y8vCXwKwhvh_EXr4tLjyqaPA3kivv6kNpS_7O2tvO7Bt-9wuYhN245jtKANhjZmRZU9G0lZWiFWcaCIobSOotAMdvkO3qfqH7iBuTXg63iZBsTIPJLFBRY_3n-A8CmzTrRH/s400/DSCN0020.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252476899737382946" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I simply adore it. It looks so professional and it is so easy to achieve. I've been using this method for a long while now, but this is the first time I've used Kathleen's <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/products_services/" target="_blank"">book </a>to draft my own facings and lining. Guess what? The way she has you drafting the lining, you get rid of that pleat at the hem. I don't know about you, but I always disliked that pleat. It is such a pain to iron (I never know exactly how much I should fold it when ironing it) and then when you wear the jacket, the pleat unfolds a bit and you have a rigid crease where you fold it. I strongly recommend Kathleen's book. Besides the info in it, it also gives you one-year free access to her members only forum - another wealth of information.<br /><br />Take a look at the photo below...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWz36MbLg6MtxORa8I94y1XSjy7eQ0Kh5Ca4LjjVmcKPyBG8xcht5FXQ-JKuYluhTjX3Qroyf-1ETW34m2y6vikPytyjFPBn_37TZHK1xipTq99JujT-6jS7Ofed9ykU3K48pzb7gyzFw/s1600-h/DSCN0019.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWz36MbLg6MtxORa8I94y1XSjy7eQ0Kh5Ca4LjjVmcKPyBG8xcht5FXQ-JKuYluhTjX3Qroyf-1ETW34m2y6vikPytyjFPBn_37TZHK1xipTq99JujT-6jS7Ofed9ykU3K48pzb7gyzFw/s400/DSCN0019.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252476894427771938" border="0" /></a><br /><br />See how the lining "blouses" at the hem? Drafting the lining as Kathleen instructs you gives you plenty of ease to allow movement, but no pleat.<br /><br />For finishing the vent, see <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/nameless_5_back_vent/" target="_blank"">this </a>episode of the nameless series.<br /><br />Unfortunately, when I cut the lining, I forgot to allow for the vent, and cut the back traditionally (omitting the vent). I added then a rectangle to the right side of the lining and I left the left side as it was, mitering the corner.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgjEf-EXjmJOHcWs_f1hnFfWTstfTKceP32VxC7k4c1ruY1r6xLsTrJjBxFWisy5QlLXhNcZHTUl2Rbc3wzgxfgS1PZTx3FbQ5X-wIq2nDm6lhpy9JgGXv1-wC7-mkC2UBdSDN-NNHj2Ak/s1600-h/DSCN0037.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgjEf-EXjmJOHcWs_f1hnFfWTstfTKceP32VxC7k4c1ruY1r6xLsTrJjBxFWisy5QlLXhNcZHTUl2Rbc3wzgxfgS1PZTx3FbQ5X-wIq2nDm6lhpy9JgGXv1-wC7-mkC2UBdSDN-NNHj2Ak/s400/DSCN0037.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252882176490171122" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Mental note to self: Stop cutting fabric when very tired .<br /><br />The buttonholes are corded, using the same multi-strand embroidery floss that I used for topstitching. The beautiful buttons are a gift from <a href="http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Summerset</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomORb2fv6aDeD2-Q2OFdQehm2FssgiTMdIti2M1ysCwYUNaShW5KKJ02d-qvxc65E0AFf58ad7ELpZZNLSBNCKS_FpzJp_M7Mk1YN75Iy5K9K561wQAgBDzSqg4CZjBlcVX71iEMG9OIt/s1600-h/DSCN0031.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomORb2fv6aDeD2-Q2OFdQehm2FssgiTMdIti2M1ysCwYUNaShW5KKJ02d-qvxc65E0AFf58ad7ELpZZNLSBNCKS_FpzJp_M7Mk1YN75Iy5K9K561wQAgBDzSqg4CZjBlcVX71iEMG9OIt/s400/DSCN0031.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252477318081924818" border="0" /></a>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com77tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-79862960584429197282008-10-01T06:12:00.000-07:002008-10-01T07:17:18.930-07:00Top made before holidaysFront of top<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSmegT-KT466K3QpXRrzDEUHlXMWyi8YSICAtA_o8UbSjjG-qfjfDH7zGBWVvmJqB8Cz9yjI0OpBGgAaO0LLOC7atgy-1F5ySgA3Vf4x8zadDOiqaEgTqGnOjAdSaCG22PXimeCHOKaXB/s1600-h/DSCN0016.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSmegT-KT466K3QpXRrzDEUHlXMWyi8YSICAtA_o8UbSjjG-qfjfDH7zGBWVvmJqB8Cz9yjI0OpBGgAaO0LLOC7atgy-1F5ySgA3Vf4x8zadDOiqaEgTqGnOjAdSaCG22PXimeCHOKaXB/s400/DSCN0016.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252173470660784322" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back of top<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiULM00pJdBUxKZYoAMqAbqC4jTTgHB0yllIB-vE70aD1VbeqlWTGlZJjMelJfqK2jlrTqdUeDTfB2c2z9ipUVYvhGasEuP6ub8kjvFvvpWeeB0cFAalWqese9Spr9QgrkLqxzYy1xuAroO/s1600-h/DSCN0018.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiULM00pJdBUxKZYoAMqAbqC4jTTgHB0yllIB-vE70aD1VbeqlWTGlZJjMelJfqK2jlrTqdUeDTfB2c2z9ipUVYvhGasEuP6ub8kjvFvvpWeeB0cFAalWqese9Spr9QgrkLqxzYy1xuAroO/s400/DSCN0018.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252173473587839202" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Top lying flat<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-W0Z9Pd2DGM0ULNFuoPXZLwmCSU4d_df9h83sLDr2TwH5OKKLvM_m5r3uIkAS94izO_cWApgbrvYyzTCE7UZcycqETe9EM5c3ceaE9XB8KfqLVehJMyH1YMLdrh0-2iC0X0ijqqpvdKF/s1600-h/DSCN0035.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE-W0Z9Pd2DGM0ULNFuoPXZLwmCSU4d_df9h83sLDr2TwH5OKKLvM_m5r3uIkAS94izO_cWApgbrvYyzTCE7UZcycqETe9EM5c3ceaE9XB8KfqLVehJMyH1YMLdrh0-2iC0X0ijqqpvdKF/s400/DSCN0035.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252173474329571010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />This is a top made just before leaving for holidays. I used <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/126_Top/1270777-1463237-1636505-1636513-1636660.html" target="_blank"">top 126</a> from Burda 07/2008 as a starting point and added some changes. I really liked the back of the pattern. I love the blousy shape that is trendy now, but be careful - your fabric must be drapey if you don't want to look like you put on weight. I also loved how the pattern doesn't have any side seams. It is interesting and it also speeds up the sewing.<br /><br />First of all, I downsized to 34. I've used an insert in Burda magazine to do it, but there's also <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=982" target="_blank" rel="'nofollow'">this tip</a> on PR that I use a lot.<br /><br />I knew I wanted a really sexy top to wear for salsa dancing and for hot holidays nights out. I made this top in a hurry to have it for holidays (it was made at the end of July) so I didn't have the time to take any photos, but I tried to show you on the pattern technical drawing what I did.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqJD-1TU7q4n29y7dpPjlskq2Nqp13By-w8gITGoYnN6ydq4u967dEeGQJ4a2hu7dNpPZh2r2BjCZeDufVHy1CZOVzGdMOUlAuh2NgCSzEaswVETPPcpKExibG8p0XhNGqNmoabdbOYd6/s1600-h/bluza.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqJD-1TU7q4n29y7dpPjlskq2Nqp13By-w8gITGoYnN6ydq4u967dEeGQJ4a2hu7dNpPZh2r2BjCZeDufVHy1CZOVzGdMOUlAuh2NgCSzEaswVETPPcpKExibG8p0XhNGqNmoabdbOYd6/s400/bluza.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252173479394332802" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The red lines are the new design lines. The front and back band are cut away from the pattern. I used black cotton-lycra for the band and I interfaced them with soft knit interfacing. You must interface them, otherwise you risk a drooping neckline. And you don't want that, do you?<br /><br />The back is cut to have a deep cleavage, showing your nude back. You cannot wear a bra with this - well, actually you could wear a very interesting bra that you feel like showing, if you want. The design is quite blousy so I don't think it works for insertion of bra cups. My fabric is drapey but quite thick so I can wear the top without a bra and I'm still totally decent. And after all, you can always purchase those little silicone patches that cover your nipples if your fabric is too revealing.<br /><br />The center back seam is pivoted to make a cowl.<br /><br />The green lines on the front show you where I cut and spread the pattern, to have little gathers that go in the neckline. I only spread my cuts about 1 cm away (approx 3/8'), I could have spread them a bit more, but as I told you I was in a hurry and didn't have time to experiment.<br /><br />The back is gathered around the square insert (part of it shows in the left corner of the drawing - the dotted black lines show the gathering), that I also cut from black viscose lycra. That is from the original Burda design and it is a detail that I like very much.<br /><br />Even if it's quite a particular top, I think I will sew it again, probably in a solid. I wore it to death during holidays and salsa parties and I got tons of compliments over it. While away on holidays, a girl wanted to buy it off my back and offered me 100 Euros for that. I took it as a compliment but kept the top :)<br /><br />See <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/07/can-you-take-more-knit-dresses.html" target="_blank"">this </a>older post for sewing with knit tips.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-9694680797208883772008-10-01T00:31:00.000-07:002008-10-01T04:53:48.330-07:00Back to blogolandSo hello there. Thought you were rid of me? :) Well, I'm still here.<br />I know I have promised to be back at the end of August, but somehow I didn't manage to keep that promise. Work and readjusting to work after a one-month holiday, and I also felt a bit low for a while. I'm definitely better right now and as one very special friend told me, it is good to indulge but then you have to snap out of it.<br /><br />I did sew in the meantime, so I'll have things to show you. I'll post them one by one to make linking easier when I want to refer to a particular garment.<br /><br />I also bought a new camera and you'll have to bear with the (poor) quality of my photos for a while. I'm still experimenting with the camera on one hand and I had to change the place where I used to take pictures on the other hand - for the simple reason that I cannot put this camera in the same position as the older one. You'll see in future posts that pictures are not very well framed (part of my head is missing, part of my legs are missing too). I'm going to buy a tripod soon but it annoys me that I won't be able to sit the camera in a vertical position (most time I prefer portrait photos to landscape photos).<br /><br />With great delay, I want to list some beautiful things I received from dear friends in the last past months. So, in chronological order...<br /><br />From <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji</a>, during her 50 <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/search?q=50+give+away" target="_blank"">giveaway</a>:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkSqakFdkP_i0bdznKoC4CYNByWrRyi247EZFCqBmcGLzKsghsfxqVavkT8dsn96EM_2S6MGNg_rOdwrR50ulnMgtgS3D6L-0YCKoncz0Xp0OfXe2Z9OW6D1yEHxUWYQOJEZEsotJLfA6/s1600-h/DSCN0023.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkSqakFdkP_i0bdznKoC4CYNByWrRyi247EZFCqBmcGLzKsghsfxqVavkT8dsn96EM_2S6MGNg_rOdwrR50ulnMgtgS3D6L-0YCKoncz0Xp0OfXe2Z9OW6D1yEHxUWYQOJEZEsotJLfA6/s320/DSCN0023.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252105486815437698" border="0" /></a><br /><br />From left to right: beautiful double-faced wool, and two pieces of gorgeous silk.<br /><br />From <a href="http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Summerset </a>- she knew I had a tough time in spring so she sent me a little cheer-up gift. Please notice that everything, including the card is in my favorite combo of colours. She also got my postal address from another friend, without me knowing it, so I was blown away when I got the parcel!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RVRTINs25B1V160U1HLMb38y2w122gvwTbJUbTBcEM4WJn7UQXskxruNWIgc2If4RGZ1vXDTZtTlW4gZsSqF6BAWErz5Yod8cYgz8bxGFuFcs1O9ltNC5UOturAmRkMgIji-CZAKlv74/s1600-h/DSCN0022.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RVRTINs25B1V160U1HLMb38y2w122gvwTbJUbTBcEM4WJn7UQXskxruNWIgc2If4RGZ1vXDTZtTlW4gZsSqF6BAWErz5Yod8cYgz8bxGFuFcs1O9ltNC5UOturAmRkMgIji-CZAKlv74/s320/DSCN0022.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252103625457500386" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It seems I forgot to include in the photo the most gorgeous black and white sequined button I've ever seen! (made by Summerset, of course). There were also some black beautiful buttons, you'll see them very soon. They are already attached to something :)<br /><br />Sewing Diva <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/category/els/" target="_blank"">Els </a>helped me buy some very nice and useful notions (and I got another load coming). Not only she was incredibly helpful both in giving advice and driving to a store to get me some things, but she also threw in scraps of interfacing to experiment with, shoulder sleeves and a pair of shoulder pads. There's also some black seam binding not included in the photo, but you'll see it very soon - I used it on a recent project.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7uQIT3eDZ8pBWlBMxJ9oV_TiDmCj2q5ovCXdVK1XAv04fD6FAWu50PGzCA4MY0H4fjtZywu7qEIsbcnWzgEqs6hUBIzzCZkqumVtf_JJF_IBr1oZjlh7pqQ_jWGOJjGkClh2coty4Fz4/s1600-h/DSCN0024.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7uQIT3eDZ8pBWlBMxJ9oV_TiDmCj2q5ovCXdVK1XAv04fD6FAWu50PGzCA4MY0H4fjtZywu7qEIsbcnWzgEqs6hUBIzzCZkqumVtf_JJF_IBr1oZjlh7pqQ_jWGOJjGkClh2coty4Fz4/s320/DSCN0024.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252103630262919826" border="0" /></a><br /><br />My sister surprised me and sent me all the way from Stockholm this gorgeous birthday gift<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGwuCo8ybQVnIhYeeBXD9X_5_tyAwe-LsYrZcPU5kzOOtWaCm0mVFzvCuSaumS26wzaq53_vV4TnFXz981QmGgWv4Rs7o8ks4pd6_nVXUq9gqodUeWYA2cEnAQrECvxjApl1KdJAh0Tlu/s1600-h/DSCN0025.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGwuCo8ybQVnIhYeeBXD9X_5_tyAwe-LsYrZcPU5kzOOtWaCm0mVFzvCuSaumS26wzaq53_vV4TnFXz981QmGgWv4Rs7o8ks4pd6_nVXUq9gqodUeWYA2cEnAQrECvxjApl1KdJAh0Tlu/s320/DSCN0025.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252103626996729298" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Everything is made by her own little hands. Can you believe this? Secretive as she is, I had no idea she was into jewelry making...<br /><br />And this gorgeous black patent bag was a birthday gift from my husband....<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzuXDZlNtd8cnKQCmI23NPdk_vNdfQfLG-B2Q1-Z0LxTK0dN_6046vDiVOVt2r4n4CFWUG_hyUhXNZmaPqDMfJVRRs5r1f7aTrvXGUGiTM2ja4Xib6nmea5Q-1ENrEq0Wx3NR4qTRv7tW/s1600-h/DSCN0008.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzuXDZlNtd8cnKQCmI23NPdk_vNdfQfLG-B2Q1-Z0LxTK0dN_6046vDiVOVt2r4n4CFWUG_hyUhXNZmaPqDMfJVRRs5r1f7aTrvXGUGiTM2ja4Xib6nmea5Q-1ENrEq0Wx3NR4qTRv7tW/s320/DSCN0008.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252108449111733186" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And this handpainted bag is a gift from my co-workers. Even my cat loves it!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirkIWYm5hNcSovf5lIMN0AWwKLVleIA8kB0Cfu0yuvjnU6mCLRaeq1TPtWN4JtHA-ZJBZgcoYPNEF1X9mWTVetlJLly6OTCR4VdobQDJ9FsZJHYGZcltgbtA0drrcv8kaVP-mjgadumXLf/s1600-h/DSCN0006.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirkIWYm5hNcSovf5lIMN0AWwKLVleIA8kB0Cfu0yuvjnU6mCLRaeq1TPtWN4JtHA-ZJBZgcoYPNEF1X9mWTVetlJLly6OTCR4VdobQDJ9FsZJHYGZcltgbtA0drrcv8kaVP-mjgadumXLf/s320/DSCN0006.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252108141737516034" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I also found out that I was nominated for <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/awards/vote.pl" target="_blank"">International Superstar</a> award on the Pattern Review. Wow, can you believe this???<br /><br />And I got a prize from <a href="http://mirelap.wordpress.com/" target="_blank"">Mirela</a>. If you're not familiar with her blog, go there right away. Mirela is a fellow Romanian living in the States. She's very talented, she sews, she knits, she crochets, she makes really beautiful things.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzVIl8pLsstbc4g5ZBotaht5Uzcn9dkz7axnZm_jYvr3lfInhgqZKFyZVQWlSCTqkOBcqWKKLVnTVtqZ-E7P3NQLGbUOMiF_Q24llgTOy2hyoetwIlpLzprQv0EXrKMuAKuIYTSjoBGi6/s1600-h/Esfuerzo_Personal%5B1%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzVIl8pLsstbc4g5ZBotaht5Uzcn9dkz7axnZm_jYvr3lfInhgqZKFyZVQWlSCTqkOBcqWKKLVnTVtqZ-E7P3NQLGbUOMiF_Q24llgTOy2hyoetwIlpLzprQv0EXrKMuAKuIYTSjoBGi6/s320/Esfuerzo_Personal%5B1%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252109433872035442" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>The rules for this award - prize are as follows:</p> <p>1. Select 6 bloggers to whom you would like to give this award- prize<br />2. Put the award - prize on your blog and indicate who gave it to you by identifying her/his blog;<br />3. Paste these rules on your blog;<br />4. Write 6 of your most important values and 6 negative points you condemn,<br />5. Inform the 6 recipients by leaving a comment on their blog.</p><p style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Most important values</p><ul><li>Freedom</li><li>Honesty</li><li>Integrity<br /></li><li>"Nurture people, not products"</li><li>Trying to be better all the time</li></ul><p style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Negative points</p><ul><li>Hurting people and knowing it</li><li>Taking advantage of the weaker</li></ul><p>I give this prize to all of you.</p><p>UPDATE: I've just ordered a tripod and it's going to be delivered to my home tomorrow in the evening. Can't wait!<br /></p>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-86584558604695353792008-08-01T03:34:00.001-07:002008-08-01T03:38:14.215-07:00Goodbye for nowI'm going away for holidays and won't be back before the end of August probably.<br />Have a great summer, great holidays, and keep those machines humming :)<br />I'll post as soon as I'm back, as I made two other items but didn't have the time to take photos.<br />I'm leaving very early in the morning tomorrow and am still at work, going to be at work until evening and haven't even started packing.<br />Why can't cats pack your things while you sleep peacefully?... Although, knowing my cat, she probably can but won't :)LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-32438439447659809832008-07-23T02:40:00.000-07:002008-07-23T06:14:56.072-07:00Can you take more knit dresses? :)I managed to buy some really nice pieces of jersey from ebay, both from individual sellers and shops. I'm a big fan of jersey, especially cotton/lycra and viscose/lycra (especially since I don't always like the colors or designs of store-bought tops) and it's almost impossible to find here. Ebay proved to be a great option, I found some great fabric (beautiful colors and good quality) at good prices too (2 pounds per meter?? I would pay at least double in a shop here!)<br /><br />The first dress is made out of cotton jersey, no lycra and the fabric was bought from ebay seller <a href="http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/sophie162223_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ" target="_blank"">sophie162223</a>. I adored the mix of colors the moment I saw them. I chose Burda WOF 04/2008 dress <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Service/Workshops/1000001-1487353.html" target="_blank"">116 </a>for this fabric.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPhcyFbWw5fnh-AdhkQU2Yjjx21MFl5XVcHCJZ8vNLB8xoPAI4ep7X3jll5IiRy_DSe0OGKe9rmfbXRnvItb55W1l0POR3LAmOa1Vy1s8Q0fygsgL1gQC3dNFcJ-3sBjvz_fZ-Edw1-htR/s1600-h/DSCN3272.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPhcyFbWw5fnh-AdhkQU2Yjjx21MFl5XVcHCJZ8vNLB8xoPAI4ep7X3jll5IiRy_DSe0OGKe9rmfbXRnvItb55W1l0POR3LAmOa1Vy1s8Q0fygsgL1gQC3dNFcJ-3sBjvz_fZ-Edw1-htR/s400/DSCN3272.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226156853240767314" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I liked the way Burda has you sew double strips at armhole and back neckline, than turn them back and topstitch (see below) but I think I'd rather have simple strips. Double strips look more finished but they add bulk. I pounded the seam allowances with a rubber hammer to reduce the bulk but I would still prefer simple strips for next time.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7cxEUTmpZ1SylLA-1o1AZzF9bbsp-WzoyBhuiH6z1uJ5HlpIST7wNRF59qpiZ7u14XipPJYVIYZLmHJ9pbFqXWMA7QEMBSWVhGNmzbumQLtNNhGak8NPyuFfz3cjvmp9DQw5LW2PTz2n/s1600-h/DSCN3262.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO7cxEUTmpZ1SylLA-1o1AZzF9bbsp-WzoyBhuiH6z1uJ5HlpIST7wNRF59qpiZ7u14XipPJYVIYZLmHJ9pbFqXWMA7QEMBSWVhGNmzbumQLtNNhGak8NPyuFfz3cjvmp9DQw5LW2PTz2n/s400/DSCN3262.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150287961076338" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I once again refer you to the Burda workshop about <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/downloads/Workshops_EN/Workshop_Jersey_EN.pdf" target="_blank"">jersey </a>- very useful, especially the part about stabilizing necklines and armholes with bias fusible tape, staystitched with a chainstitch, but I would like to add a few things about sewing with knits (I read all of them some place or another):<br /><br /><ul><li>It is very important to cut your knits on grain (well, it is very important to cut all your fabric on grain). See the Burda workshop where they explain very well how to find the grain on a knit. Have you ever had one of those store-bought t-shirts that you really like but after a couple of washes your side seams are totally crooked? They become diagonal and you have one seam showing in front and another one showing in the back? That's because the knit was not on grain.<br /></li><li>A walking foot helps with knits (that is my experience). It avoids stretching of seams (although you can also avoid that by reducing your foot pressure, if your machine has that option) and it crosses easier bulky seams (for some of them you don't even need to use a jig to level your foot with the fabric), thus keeping stitches equal (you know how your stitch length shortens when you sew on a bulky part and don't use a jig to help your foot?)</li><li>I always use a stretch 75 needle or Microtex needles (70 or 80) for difficult to sew fabrics (slinky comes to mind)<br /></li><li>Since I discovered the stabilizing bias fusible tape (Vilene Bias Tape), I use it to stabilize the shoulders also and thus I don't need to catch a strip of fabric, nylon tape or other stuff in the seam. Love this tape, just ordered 50 m of it from <a href="http://www.sewessential.co.uk/Search.asp?SearchString=vilene+bias+tape&x=0&y=0" target="_blank"">SewEssential</a>.</li><li>I really love the look of deeper hems and try to have 4-4.5 cm (1 3/5 - 1 4/5") hems if the amount of fabric available allows it.</li></ul><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zX7n4YTsf9rHM5wr41cXLbItjZd0369w3g1n850P99kWAyY52r8Kp5YKdTW8CtL29RIY-k0bkYKjYAGmNlv0uVi7Jto7SKQVbtlCRSQhbFaPBO4mQgWkZRzcn0jEzYLWtAOtUoPaybKX/s1600-h/DSCN3263.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zX7n4YTsf9rHM5wr41cXLbItjZd0369w3g1n850P99kWAyY52r8Kp5YKdTW8CtL29RIY-k0bkYKjYAGmNlv0uVi7Jto7SKQVbtlCRSQhbFaPBO4mQgWkZRzcn0jEzYLWtAOtUoPaybKX/s400/DSCN3263.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150616091815442" border="0" /></a><ul><li>For hemming, I always use a twin needle (I covet a coverstitch machine!), I prefer the needles with 2.5 distance between the needles but a 4 distance needle works just fine too (it gives a sportier look in my opinion). I have a separate bobbin shuttle dedicated to hemming knits and bobbin work. It has the tension reduced to 0 (unscrew the bobbin screw as much as you can without it falling). You can play with your tension on your bobbin shuttle if you have just one but I remember reading that if you do that too often you risk ruining your shuttle for good. I always use woolly nylon in the bobbin (I have black, white and beige and these go for almost everything; I would love to have coordinated colours, but that's what I could find). Wind the bobbin by hand or, if you're lazy and easily bored like me, wind it by machine, bypassing all the tension guides and setting your sewing speed to the lowest setting possible. Otherwise, the woolly nylon gets too stretched during winding and looses its stretchability. And you do want it in your hem for its stretchability! Since I hem like this, I never got popped stitches in my hem and believe me, I can get pretty brutal to my clothes when undressing, especially if I'm very tired or in a big rush.</li><li><span class="prbig">also for hemming knits, I've been using <a href="http://behindtheseams.wordpress.com/2006/06/20/coverstitching-over-serged-seams/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">this</a> tip by Sewing Diva Gigi for quite some time now. Great tip, it definitely improved the appearance of my hems. Her tip is for a coverstitch machine, but it works equally well when you sew your knit hems with a twin needle, on your regular machine, like I do. </span></li><li>I used to cut 0.6 cm (1/4") seam allowances on all knits and sew them directly. I'm good with a serger (at least that's what I like to think) but still, this method is not the best for more complicated models, with draping details and so on. Now I cut 1.6 cm (5/8") allowances, sew them with a stretch stitch on my regular machine (I don't really like the specialised stretch stitch on my machine, the one that looks like a lightning; I prefer a zigzag stitch, 2.5 long and 0.5 wide) or with a basting stitch (make sure you take the stitching out after finishing your seams in this case) and then serge it away in total confidence.<br /></li><li>For more difficult hems, I use Steam a Seam to fuse them in place. By the way, I don't know about you, but the European versions of Steam a Seam I found are the kind that you iron on the fabric, fold the hem in place and iron again. They do come apart most of the time in washing and you have to press them back. Well, my dear friend <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji </a>sent me some genuine Steam a Seam and wow! It adheres to fabric without ironing. You only iron it in place to make the bond permanent. And it is permanent - it doesn't come apart in the wash! One remark however, whether you use Steam a Seam or other similar stuff for knits, make you sure you get the light version (Steam a Seam Lite), otherwise it makes your knit stiff. The light stuff is totally unnoticeable.<br /></li></ul>OK. Sorry for this long digression. Now for the second dress:<br /><br />Front:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKC-5WpCcgp6J2iX1i1Y-09s-zu2axNMv6GF_O4e6zzHlIcOF4rlSVa51fPdTq9ZCLdivyD0fUPWMo1LO85Ljo7Q8-Y-vaNfbCaH2jWwiVPGxuyUpzmuHVtk-goWvHA1R5JwKcoP3zFF7/s1600-h/DSCN3279.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKC-5WpCcgp6J2iX1i1Y-09s-zu2axNMv6GF_O4e6zzHlIcOF4rlSVa51fPdTq9ZCLdivyD0fUPWMo1LO85Ljo7Q8-Y-vaNfbCaH2jWwiVPGxuyUpzmuHVtk-goWvHA1R5JwKcoP3zFF7/s400/DSCN3279.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226153383153859634" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Side<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6CmgwI-MFeS4tDt9ozA1kDJQz8qrtdfaLXA2QQ9ApjwenCOThAv-kqi8TjIYCMC-4OFFI2bjGspy83RkFw21TJbNFuOa-UIyqRcQkA8gjVufmBE3kBpRiEVKXN8xmn4S5UUANQGVqvBX/s1600-h/DSCN3277.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6CmgwI-MFeS4tDt9ozA1kDJQz8qrtdfaLXA2QQ9ApjwenCOThAv-kqi8TjIYCMC-4OFFI2bjGspy83RkFw21TJbNFuOa-UIyqRcQkA8gjVufmBE3kBpRiEVKXN8xmn4S5UUANQGVqvBX/s400/DSCN3277.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150624332925298" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back view<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9deEm_812wlYxMOSW8OgwQKTh13n2mng7sQze2BpDLcPNOwn4k9_9w1muCAsirvGv-5KICinGq1zWAFv9D9xYeP0l3putq8YtzdYdOsxNOx5864UuTY86RfzLLRjy5lKOlttBO6ewzDWB/s1600-h/DSCN3283.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9deEm_812wlYxMOSW8OgwQKTh13n2mng7sQze2BpDLcPNOwn4k9_9w1muCAsirvGv-5KICinGq1zWAFv9D9xYeP0l3putq8YtzdYdOsxNOx5864UuTY86RfzLLRjy5lKOlttBO6ewzDWB/s400/DSCN3283.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226153384000477186" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />This is the vintage <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/3803" target="_blank"">swimsuit </a>from Burdastyle, mixed with the bottom of the <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/07/two-more-knit-dresses.html" target="_blank"">green </a>Burda dress (without the back darts). There are several problems with this pattern, Cidell highlighted them in <a href="http://missceliespants.blogspot.com/2008/07/star-spangled-muslin.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post. There were (there are now, they updated the pattern) no notches for the gathering, so I did it "by eye" as we say here. The back straps should be cut on fold and if you want to tie them with a bow like in the Burdastyle photo, you should also lengthen them (you see that I can only tie mine with a knot). I also had to shorten the long strap by 9 cm (4 3/4") and the front strap that brings together the gathering in the bust insert by 5 cm (2").<br /><br />The dress is made out of a gorgeous jet black viscose lycra bought from ebay shop <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Fabric-Fabric" target="_blank"">fabric-fabric</a>. I bought several viscose lycra knits from them and I absolutely love them.<br /><br />I inserted bra cups (this pattern is so adequate for bra straps because you have that back tie strap that really helps, it give the effect of a bra: cups+back strap), again by using <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/04/19/adding-bra-cups-to-a-halter-top-or-dress/" target="_blank"">this </a>very useful tutorial by Diva Gigi on the Sewing Divas blog. I only attached the cups at the underbust part and left the upper part unattached (because the insert is gathered at sides and center).<br /><br />Wrong side<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rehn9n7DByuN4enGCrsoaJL_Fas7TOKqemRVriHf_UObuCEuh5UbCOMiQAcdBnJC1fUWnMywhhtSj-IeLvckkpvBjCdFRIpgLb_481lgvzmMtG4hdFImtc_2JBwAsw3czbK-zv3Mas0B/s1600-h/DSCN3258.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rehn9n7DByuN4enGCrsoaJL_Fas7TOKqemRVriHf_UObuCEuh5UbCOMiQAcdBnJC1fUWnMywhhtSj-IeLvckkpvBjCdFRIpgLb_481lgvzmMtG4hdFImtc_2JBwAsw3czbK-zv3Mas0B/s400/DSCN3258.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150278767272466" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Right side<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBu-oliqN5PXYYnuzIvK_LDBa4HtwxBEibiFH-RH9ssjfCm0iC4gkQoc5oTr5ZoMAp84z6VN34vnaa08NHRBFS3W7B0mAqCVCAFtE-6mpRt48wJRoWRCxp19MeJ0qyWXtY7Pk8ldYhWmBf/s1600-h/DSCN3261.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBu-oliqN5PXYYnuzIvK_LDBa4HtwxBEibiFH-RH9ssjfCm0iC4gkQoc5oTr5ZoMAp84z6VN34vnaa08NHRBFS3W7B0mAqCVCAFtE-6mpRt48wJRoWRCxp19MeJ0qyWXtY7Pk8ldYhWmBf/s400/DSCN3261.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150282526187074" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The viscose lycra is a heavy stretchy fabric and even if stretched the long band as much as I could, I still felt it would need to hug my body better therefore I added clear elastic on the entire length.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mif2mMIgbFhZzfEjBeJtfQUu5bjokYFQ94tKDKMV5LscFUX_IK5eJe358bx6sk5QtfWSMot_Cer93iA1Q6uq7AT8JkQWrxFe_K2tB8yH5KWxwku2PoHxR3iFI0ZHhwqBjTQ4DHxDtAFf/s1600-h/DSCN3259.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mif2mMIgbFhZzfEjBeJtfQUu5bjokYFQ94tKDKMV5LscFUX_IK5eJe358bx6sk5QtfWSMot_Cer93iA1Q6uq7AT8JkQWrxFe_K2tB8yH5KWxwku2PoHxR3iFI0ZHhwqBjTQ4DHxDtAFf/s400/DSCN3259.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150280562598258" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Remember to stretch the clear elastic a few times before inserting it, otherwise it would stretch in the garment and you end up with a wavy edge insert of a body-hugging one. Clear elastic is very good because it tends to adhere to naked skin (like those silicon strips on bra elastic, for strapless bras).<br /><br />A deep hem again...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF7HQUUW7WyFjLQNiJvsUphX0GDFXuVo9sL49lwZhqDDA1YpPyZ7W1UelgwAlLqCbIIS1DI1Dafx7LJpw_4x8NcSq-fZVRQ8eYj6leIKXta6g6h8x_a-p5r4Ab2coMY2F2Jfl5V6n6kG6b/s1600-h/DSCN3260.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF7HQUUW7WyFjLQNiJvsUphX0GDFXuVo9sL49lwZhqDDA1YpPyZ7W1UelgwAlLqCbIIS1DI1Dafx7LJpw_4x8NcSq-fZVRQ8eYj6leIKXta6g6h8x_a-p5r4Ab2coMY2F2Jfl5V6n6kG6b/s400/DSCN3260.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226150285860892738" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And because I will use this dress a lot for salsa dancing, I'm wearing it with my new dancing shoes in the picture. Here's a close-up from the manufacturer's website:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bZU0qlbO7GMH8pjs6juqS3DLEfRvIYZkA4J_-2eaP2LhDtLgXIxyTxTVQ65pJqUOP6j-miXKvqSxLbJm19BvDvUP7WPEt1K-sqZn2SgbkDNxdx6mfSOKGS6vq24jLknvv2Dw51byO5wx/s1600-h/sandale.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bZU0qlbO7GMH8pjs6juqS3DLEfRvIYZkA4J_-2eaP2LhDtLgXIxyTxTVQ65pJqUOP6j-miXKvqSxLbJm19BvDvUP7WPEt1K-sqZn2SgbkDNxdx6mfSOKGS6vq24jLknvv2Dw51byO5wx/s400/sandale.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226170582222984386" border="0" /></a>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com48tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-17707610147680424912008-07-16T02:09:00.000-07:002008-07-16T03:22:28.108-07:00Two more knit dressesFirst dress is more of a wearable muslin. I had this cotton knit in red, a warm red with a tiny touch of orange. I normally prefer cotton/lycra to cotton jersey, so I decided to make a wearable muslin - I will make this dress again in black, for salsa dancing and going out.<br /><br />It is Burda World of Fashion 05/2008, dress <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/104_Dress_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1616731-1616738-1616935-1616937.html" target="_blank"">104</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpraIq9BZqx_FHkZWX-2lOhFXQmdrlEOZ_0RqLQ1abyJ0ufFtB6lamxdRp2Anh-FWOkmGvlDBVCU4CBDGPNhzmUqShYncBTkDWAq347sYHEiAeixuirsFHiJt4B37QO3TW_Ts857TCR7A6/s1600-h/DSCN3251.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpraIq9BZqx_FHkZWX-2lOhFXQmdrlEOZ_0RqLQ1abyJ0ufFtB6lamxdRp2Anh-FWOkmGvlDBVCU4CBDGPNhzmUqShYncBTkDWAq347sYHEiAeixuirsFHiJt4B37QO3TW_Ts857TCR7A6/s400/DSCN3251.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223537365465694418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I don't have many things to say about this dress, it is easy to make, you can see more close-ups than I managed to take on my friend Tany's blog - the post about the <a href="http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/2008/06/vestido-amarelo-aafro-burda-maio-2008.html" target="_blank"">saffron dress</a>. A few words about changes made and changes that will be made:<br /><ul><li>I didn't insert a zipper - why does Burda plans for a zipper in a very elastic dress, it's a total mystery to me. You simply don't need it.<br /></li><li>I once again refer you to the Burda workshop about <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/downloads/Workshops_EN/Workshop_Jersey_EN.pdf" target="_blank"">jersey </a>- very useful, especially the part about stabilising necklines and armholes with bias fusible tape, staystitched with a chainstitch (you buy it in notion stores - see a photo on Tany's blog, in <a href="http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/2008/07/vestido-burda-fevereiro-2008-mod103b.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post) - they say how you should fuse this tape - the chainstitch must be placed on the stitching line. I didn't know that and have wondered how I should do it.</li><li>I made a mistake and cut a different pattern piece for the belt. The dress has a symmetrical belt, the asymmetrical belt that I cut was meant for the top using the same pattern - <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/103_Top/1270777-1463237-1616731-1616733-1616756.html" target="_blank"">this </a>top. I actually prefer asymmetry to symmetry in many cases, but in this particular case, I do think the dress would look better with the symmetrical belt.<br /></li></ul><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GmlI9xkHGNW3TxcrhG6iphnfu37SCKe23r4OxsRAQZwOEYiX-Uz8q5BIlG9mm-K6ABQFNzf6IKxA-bXxWZzZzK-XuwiXmnJAhMoTJt9Cbe3s8k22F9uZ8cDzESOVXVX9cFzS0OWYbEnu/s1600-h/DSCN3252.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GmlI9xkHGNW3TxcrhG6iphnfu37SCKe23r4OxsRAQZwOEYiX-Uz8q5BIlG9mm-K6ABQFNzf6IKxA-bXxWZzZzK-XuwiXmnJAhMoTJt9Cbe3s8k22F9uZ8cDzESOVXVX9cFzS0OWYbEnu/s400/DSCN3252.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223537369547690370" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><ul><li>I used a metal buckle (the only one I had in my stash) but a plastic one would be better. The metal is heavier and pulls a bit the belt.<br /></li><li>Next time I make this dress I will make the neckline wider, shortening the shoulders at neck by about 2 cm (approx 0.8") on each side. A wider neckline would look better on me. I might draw a deeper neckline as well, since this dress will be for going out. As it is, this is a very non-Burda cleavage, meaning very decent as compared to their regular plunging necklines :)</li><li>For the next dress, I will lengthen the self-lining part of the bodice to reach under my bust. I plan to insert bra cups in the lining and finish the end of the lining with elastic.<br /></li></ul>Even if I'm not totally happy with this dress, it got me plenty of compliments at work (probably because of the colour too).<br /><br />And now, my absolute favourite dress so far:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglByaZC6bkiUngNob2-aKWdbDXIIPpJtXEOC_Tg8f0AVv2H84TDsU53XaUorfvv05UAkurjfSJRgZQ1HxsGCElLSzX3KXZ2aBGnWpn_WFFiuD5ShK2X6exVjfIYYbkNyEiJ9iPrdrhv4gq/s1600-h/DSCN3255.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglByaZC6bkiUngNob2-aKWdbDXIIPpJtXEOC_Tg8f0AVv2H84TDsU53XaUorfvv05UAkurjfSJRgZQ1HxsGCElLSzX3KXZ2aBGnWpn_WFFiuD5ShK2X6exVjfIYYbkNyEiJ9iPrdrhv4gq/s400/DSCN3255.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223537371689156834" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is Burda WOF 02/2008, dress <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/103_A_Dress_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1586151-1586153-1586200-1586202.html" target="_103"">103</a>.<br /><br />Once more, go to Tany's blog - <a href="http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/2008/07/vestido-burda-fevereiro-2008-mod103b.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post - to see more close-ups and explanations concerning the construction of the front knotted/draped detail. I read the Burda instructions a couple of times to understand how I'm supposed to do this. It is not that difficult actually, pretty straightforward once you get it.<br /><br />I made the short-sleeved version but I'm totally in love with this dress - it was such a success that a woman stopped me in the street to ask me where I bought this gorgeous dress - so I'll definitely make the 3/4 sleeve version too, probably for fall and that one will be underlined.<br /><br />I made a petite alteration to the pattern and that's all. The fabric is cotton/lycra, a lovely shade of green. Even after the petite alteration, the dress was quite long, therefore I made a wider hem and I love this look. I think I'll only use wide hems from now on on knits (about 5 cm = approx 2"), they give such an elegant appearance, especially when used in a dress.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-nz3TvQ_56efS36qG-fS19PMIcIBbsn4UVO3Bjn9S2eC3xIdZ9RWO8p2ZPezvngj9cEozHoQQojakhSP4pdNVDfjsyzTid7R7_LzxVR4T3O5r9c1MukuwStOCbjFixVpGSZIeQum11gr/s1600-h/DSCN3256.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-nz3TvQ_56efS36qG-fS19PMIcIBbsn4UVO3Bjn9S2eC3xIdZ9RWO8p2ZPezvngj9cEozHoQQojakhSP4pdNVDfjsyzTid7R7_LzxVR4T3O5r9c1MukuwStOCbjFixVpGSZIeQum11gr/s400/DSCN3256.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223537376418609874" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This dress is the perfect example of instant gratification. Three hours for making it (including cutting the pattern, as it was traced, but not cut) and maximum impact because of the very interesting design. I could see this dress made again with the top part changed to a cami style - the raglan construction would be so easy to turn into a strap-design.<br /><br /><span class="prbig">And for hemming knits, I've been using <a href="http://behindtheseams.wordpress.com/2006/06/20/coverstitching-over-serged-seams/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">this</a> tip by Sewing Diva Gigi for quite some time now. Great tip, it definitely improved the appearance of my hems. Her tip is for a coverstitch machine, but it works equally well when you sew your knit hems with a twin needle, on your regular machine, like I do. </span>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-65531985849527763182008-07-15T03:42:00.000-07:002008-07-15T04:41:29.833-07:00What I've been sewing latelyFirst of all, let me thank you for welcoming me back in such a nice and warm way. Believe me, I missed you and missed blogging a lot. I especially want to thank all the new-comers and delurkers. I'm glad that you are here and hope you'll visit and "speak" often. So a hearty welcome to <a href="http://deisdelights.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Dei</a>, <a href="http://forme-byme.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Catherine</a>, Rose, <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/12953347562329586677" target="_blank"">Gwen</a>, <a href="http://lelah.livejournal.com/" target="_blank"">Lelah</a>, Ingrid, Chris, <a href="http://designingcreations.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Christy</a>, another <a href="http://rosessewingroom.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Rose</a>, <a href="http://tcusic-praisegarments.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Tracey</a>.<br /><br />And now let me show you what I made lately, only the skirt was made during my silence period, the rest was done after that. I wanted to sew dresses because I love dresses and I have few. It's more versatile to have blouses and skirts for the office. But I decided to remedy that, with the help of my beloved Burda - I love this magazine, the patterns are so well drafted and I rarely need to do any changes at all besides a petite alteration.<br /><br />This skirt that I made (please forgive the very poor quality of the picture, I tried to lighten it in Photoshop so you can see the topstitching better, but with very bad results; you'll see the close-up which is a lot better; as I've told you before, my camera takes strange pictures when on self-timer and in artificial light) was the beginning of a capsule that I wanted to make. A summer capsule inspired by this mix of colours in a Burda magazine:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/637/000001637051"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/637/000001637051" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I love these strong colours mixed together and I am going to sew that capsule at some point (not now, because the capsule will be rather for office and everyday life and right now I want to sew for my holiday at the seaside!). The colours are going to be burnt orange, purple, green and turquoise blue. I have fabric for 6 tops and 6 bottoms, plus a viscose chiffon in a print with all the colours mentioned above.<br /><br />Without further ado, here's the skirt - Burda WOF 02/2008, skirt <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/103_A_Dress_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1586151-1586153-1586396-1586398.html" target="_blank"">111</a>:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwV-zjxmDMwg0QyaQKSSe3ijjq1TlH8ZZGt011NxcX7HT2YQ2hFbVBuaqxW-w90HCA_MGHehzCjJXKzg8VS0UkIv9Yqe1CoqHNEysdNB5PFkE3ZzQqhiIEFFybq-Svp6NuQ3Iul5SH-mCA/s1600-h/DSCN3249.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwV-zjxmDMwg0QyaQKSSe3ijjq1TlH8ZZGt011NxcX7HT2YQ2hFbVBuaqxW-w90HCA_MGHehzCjJXKzg8VS0UkIv9Yqe1CoqHNEysdNB5PFkE3ZzQqhiIEFFybq-Svp6NuQ3Iul5SH-mCA/s400/DSCN3249.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223199747157693010" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This skirt being an important piece in my colourful capsule, I decided to topstitch the bands with the colours of my wardrobe - green, orange, purple and turquoise. I used topstitching thread for that. Unhappily when I graded down from 36 to 34 it seems I didn't grade the front band very well (see it in the close-up below) and the last lines of topstitching don't go all the way around but stop somewhere in the middle (the band was a bit wider at the center than at the end, arghh, why didn't I think of checking that after grading down??).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFVRnTuT6BSdan4yV5-f-mY-CoPPsvQLjrrzQBFqoKk2Bq543FavCYop3vHIpG5A4FFB-3QElDD3YVlbxGczFxKwLlpeuYi12g9vtOzmwnzbjPIf_Et7_J14YMe2RnYQ9XJGYoVlxtrFEe/s1600-h/DSCN3250.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFVRnTuT6BSdan4yV5-f-mY-CoPPsvQLjrrzQBFqoKk2Bq543FavCYop3vHIpG5A4FFB-3QElDD3YVlbxGczFxKwLlpeuYi12g9vtOzmwnzbjPIf_Et7_J14YMe2RnYQ9XJGYoVlxtrFEe/s320/DSCN3250.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223195991141588530" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The photo includes one of my favorite bags, that will go nicely with the entire capsule. And here's a beautiful necklace that will also go with everything.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfqM6IIWHolAfwNg-Pf9CScAZhHXEyjxvf1RW_Ej5VcmbQZQ8JBSBtDNgAyvCQ8bZecKlOvKU0u5aq2OtxTzIJ0HYLEriR1S_kv2P1gjj6jStkauWhABLMq2d7bYyL2N-QE2z4RrEnWes/s1600-h/DSCN3257.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfqM6IIWHolAfwNg-Pf9CScAZhHXEyjxvf1RW_Ej5VcmbQZQ8JBSBtDNgAyvCQ8bZecKlOvKU0u5aq2OtxTzIJ0HYLEriR1S_kv2P1gjj6jStkauWhABLMq2d7bYyL2N-QE2z4RrEnWes/s320/DSCN3257.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223196385632760978" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The fabric is a stretch cotton sateen. A word of caution if you think of making this skirt: you need quite a bit of stretch in your fabric because it is a pencil skirt with no back slit or pleat and it is quite tight around your knees. I like the skirt as it is and it is not uncomfortable, but the next one will have a center back seam and a slit or kick pleat of some sort.<br /><br />The next dress is a very easy dress from Burda WOF 07/2008, dress <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Burda_World_of_Fashion/120_Dress_technical_drawing/1270777-1000019-1636509-1636591-1636593.html" target="_blank"">120</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnltbm-wYwIflXD7GLdRsXQZ-y56KxsBaIx-UuwxNjgU-dRexgsKQ9noTpA_R2QN3OVNbA1cbgrLCgK7yD3p_LyKJRwmmg41_5auM6OY0-Bk9cMHpNyX9l4prBy06I9pk5gzLRotMeVjsZ/s1600-h/DSCN3245.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnltbm-wYwIflXD7GLdRsXQZ-y56KxsBaIx-UuwxNjgU-dRexgsKQ9noTpA_R2QN3OVNbA1cbgrLCgK7yD3p_LyKJRwmmg41_5auM6OY0-Bk9cMHpNyX9l4prBy06I9pk5gzLRotMeVjsZ/s400/DSCN3245.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223199739825075506" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It is made of silk jersey, a beautiful panel bought of UK ebay. This was my first time working with silk jersey and I strongly recommend reading this <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/guides/silkjersey.asp" target="_blank"">factsheet </a>on emmaonesock. Very useful tips. If only I read that before pre-washing the fabric! In my ignorance I line-dried the fabric instead of drying it flat and I managed to distort it. It took a very careful steaming and pressing to get it back in shape. See, I told you practice makes perfect! After so many weeks without sewing, I made a mistake at almost every garment that I've sewn.<br /><br />The front is cut on fold, but the back has a center seam. I wanted to match the motifs on the remaining pieces as well as possible.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlQr9OOxbaP7COVHL4DGH6lzjVGIW11QNiUzdA2MvtVBgdT8r3fX9r11nY-kUUc1nAHNIztCUYKq7OrBGhPFe9Ti82xuFI3Y20-vPzDIefVsZVF7O5RKBTlDs2ZSMOFwAXwM_KfbIODrw/s1600-h/DSCN3247.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlQr9OOxbaP7COVHL4DGH6lzjVGIW11QNiUzdA2MvtVBgdT8r3fX9r11nY-kUUc1nAHNIztCUYKq7OrBGhPFe9Ti82xuFI3Y20-vPzDIefVsZVF7O5RKBTlDs2ZSMOFwAXwM_KfbIODrw/s400/DSCN3247.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223199746456129730" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And here's a close-up of the not perfect but alright match in the back, as well as the teardrop beads that I used to embellish the end of the string that ties the dress around the neck.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDNiwdb8LGKcv-xTo4fYg9zk0P4xqfSATFwhddg-XFXJIJo3bntv42hM-qyedVR_jX8NX8WYPiqaO90_OugkRhuCrYJooTdf90Zde7iQM6Qp7Qbeq7v7MWwrHLrOA3akcbUT1YeyliT06/s1600-h/DSCN3248.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDNiwdb8LGKcv-xTo4fYg9zk0P4xqfSATFwhddg-XFXJIJo3bntv42hM-qyedVR_jX8NX8WYPiqaO90_OugkRhuCrYJooTdf90Zde7iQM6Qp7Qbeq7v7MWwrHLrOA3akcbUT1YeyliT06/s320/DSCN3248.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223195722718530322" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The upper front is self-lined and I also inserted bra cups. I cannot imagine wearing such a dress without a bra and I don't like strapless bras so much. I always feel they are not exactly secure on me (maybe because I'm a B cup). Normally I would have lined or underlined the entire dress but this is a dress for dancing and for hot summers (summer is really hot in Bucharest) therefore I didn't want a tricot lining or underlining and I didn't have silk jersey to line it. So the dress is left unlined.<br /><br />I also inserted clear elastic in the back. I did remember to stretch the elastic a few times before inserting it (to eliminate some of the stretch) but I still would have liked it to hug my body better especially after some hours of wearing. So next time I will insert regular elastic, or clear elastic, but sewn to the already hemmed back - this way, the clear elastic is in direct contact with the skin and it tends to adhere to it (I know because there's clear elastic sewn to the top of the cups, with this purpose in mind).<br /><br />To insert the bra cups, I used <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/04/19/adding-bra-cups-to-a-halter-top-or-dress/" target="_blank"">this </a>very useful tutorial by Diva Gigi on the Sewing Divas blog. I attached the cups only partially (the black lines in the photo below show you where the zigzag stitching stops) because I needed to check if the cups won't prevent me from sewing the ring. I had indeed to cut a bit from the front part in order to accommodate the ring.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqu3iveJgFpMNZv-7vWrRANabC1tcRiyBTQDkRqjwbFGz1-46xl6z1CFfcOnECjr3zMqxX1fvnYDKBTanEnk1iP2w3s-mRPy3R0hdGj1pjq4cg4p5wjrxEIQdiraDu8ozHijgMj1XiNZ0i/s1600-h/DSCN3242.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqu3iveJgFpMNZv-7vWrRANabC1tcRiyBTQDkRqjwbFGz1-46xl6z1CFfcOnECjr3zMqxX1fvnYDKBTanEnk1iP2w3s-mRPy3R0hdGj1pjq4cg4p5wjrxEIQdiraDu8ozHijgMj1XiNZ0i/s320/DSCN3242.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5223195706571874562" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Despite the need to match the motifs and the insertion of bra cups, it still was a quick dress. I love knit projects, they are so rewarding! Tomorrow I'll show you two other dresses, both knit. You can easily whip one in one evening.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-20060304788287865872008-07-08T00:56:00.000-07:002008-07-08T05:13:10.611-07:00Alive... but not exactly kickingI can't believe it's been already two months since I last posted. But if you thought I fell off the face of the planet, well, I'm still here. I didn't go away on a holiday, I didn't suffer from SWAP hangover (as <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji </a>put it so well). These past two months have been incredibly busy, it is the first time in my life when I felt constantly that I'm struggling to keep the pace with all the things that I had to do and I'm behind most of the times.<br /><br />You don't know me (in person I mean), but I can tell you that I'm a highly energetic person. My level of energy, including physical, is naturally very high. I don't take any credit for that, it's just the way I've been since I was a kid - plenty of energy to spend and normally, positive energy. This helps me a lot when under pressure. Usually pressure (well, short and medium-term) stimulates me and makes me faster and most of the times better. So it is very unusual for me to feel that I can't manage all the things that I must do.<br /><br />So what happened? Think lots and lots of work to do, a very important conference with high officials and important people from the artistic world to organize, a 2-weeks visit from my mother in law and her husband (they live in Dallas, TX) which brought plenty of supplementary household chores, trips to make all over the country to visit relatives and so on. A 5-days teambuilding that was mostly work - my organisation is preparing for the first excellence star (read more about the committed to excellence concept on the <a href="http://www.efqm.org/" target="_blank"">EFQM </a>site) and I was leader of one of the groups doing self-assessment and improvement projects. Serious conflicts in my department at work, serious personal problems in my department... As head of this department, many of these problems have a direct impact on me, both professionally (as conflict mediator) and personally (things that happen to people in my team affect me) as you can imagine. On one hand I can't believe it's been two months since I last posted, on the other hand it feels like one year and not just two months.<br /><br />I've tried to keep up with your blogs as much as I could, even if I rarely (very rarely) had the time to comment or drop a line and I know I have been quite an absent friend... But I'm back, even if quite tired and hopefully the month of July will be a bit easier (there's plenty to do anyway, more than "normally", but compared to how it's been, it does seem a breeze!). I managed to sew a skirt almost a month ago and two easy knit dresses this past week but couldn't bring myself to take photos or blog about it. I guess I just needed to take it easy and come back to the sewing world step by step :)<br /><br />But it felt so good to have a sign or a small line from some of you, thank you for writing me, thank you for worrying about me! Thank you, <a href="http://susie-homemaker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Melissa</a>, Designdreamer, <a href="http://imanidoro.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Val</a>, <a href="http://kittycouture.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Isabelle</a>, <a href="http://members.authorsguild.net/dinahleekung/disc.htm" target="_blank"">Dinah</a>, another Melissa (who doesn't have a blog), <a href="http://alittlesewing.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Robin Denning</a>, <a href="http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Carolyn</a>, Winnifred from PR. Please forgive me for not having the time to give a reply, however your messages meant a lot to me. Hope I didn't forget anyone who wrote me... Which reminds me, it has come to my attention that during the last 6 or 7 months, there's been lots of problems with our email server (changing the server, changing software etc) and friends tell me that they sent me messages I never got or I know I sent them messages but they didn't get them. So, if you sent me an email and never got a reply, please forward it to me again, because I never got it!<br /><br />I'll come back with photos. Promise :) It feels good to be back already.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-3908568353427617562008-05-07T02:54:00.000-07:002008-05-07T03:30:03.682-07:00Hopefully not Oscar-likeI've been away for ten days - Orthodox Easter and then the 1 May holidays. 2 May was the birthday of my grandmother, who turned 80 and we went to see her and tried to make her feel special and spoiled.<br /><br />When back, the first thing I did was check the Timmel <a href="http://timmelfabrics.com/" target="_blank"">page</a>, to see if the votes were counted. Surprise! Julie said the votes were counted indeed but she won't post the results until Monday (5 May morning). However she did email the five winners to let them know about their prizes. I checked my email... nothing. So I thought I didn't even make it among the top five. I was sad and kind of disappointed but then I came to terms with it because I looked at what I made for the contest and was quite pleased with it - which doesn't happen so often.<br /><br />And then... the shock! The votes were posted on Monday morning (in Canada, it was evening here) and I found that I have got the first prize! I nearly died and fainted :) It was the biggest happiest shock ever.<br /><br />Check out the Timmel SWAP <a href="http://timmelfabrics.com/2008swap.htm" target="_blank"">page</a>, if you haven't by now. There are great-great wardrobes in there and I don't speak only about the winners. There are at least two wardrobes that I liked very much and aren't among the winners.<br /><br />I wanted to write about something for a long time but haven't got the time before going away for holidays. It feels kind of stupid and pretentious to write it now because I hate Oscar-like speeches, but please bear with me. I hope you know by now that all that I write comes truly from the heart. And this is especially true for the following.<br /><br />You have been giving me such heartfelt appreciation during the past year. Every one of your comments and every new person coming to my blog or delurking makes me so happy. After I post something, I check my blog every 5 minutes to see what you think and what you say :) And every word means something for me, even if unhappily, I don't always have the time to thank you for that.<br /><br />So a big thank you and a big, warm virtual hug for all of you. Your feedback encourages me and pushes me forward and I feel that it is also thanks to this that I have evolved so much during the past year. YOU make me want to be better. YOU make me strive to do more.<br /><br />But this post is also about giving special thanks to a few persons that have stood by me along this SWAP and whose words and encouragement meant a huge deal:<br /><br />My beautiful friend <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji</a> - Marji, your warmth, straight-forwardness, sense of humour, great sense of style and I could go on like that for a while... You will always be somebody special for me.<br /><a href="http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Carolyn </a>- you can't imagine what a great feeling I had whenever I saw your "just checking with you" messages in my inbox. And you know very well that your email when I really felt like giving up encouraged me and pushed me forward.<br /><a href="http://sewrandom.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Lisa Laree</a> - your "you can do it, keep sewing" posts on the SWAP thread and at my blog brought a big-big smile to my face. I felt instantly energized and optimistic.<br /><a href="http://sewingandgardening.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Cherie </a>- You wrote me your first very nice supportive message when I was participating in the PR wardrobe contest last year and since then, I constantly felt your presence through your emails and your comments at my blog. Your confidence in my talent gave me confidence in my talent and made me feel I could make a difference.<br /><br />And last but not the least... <a href="http://timmelfabrics.com/" target="_blank"">Julie</a>, the organizer of the SWAP contest. Besides being such a great host for this contest, besides putting a lot of heart, a lot of time, effort and money in it. She and the first SWAP I was in last year catalyzed my evolution. Because of Julie and her 2007 SWAP I started a sewing blog. And starting this blog, as I've tried to explain above, meant a great leap for me so I feel I owe Julie a LOT without her even knowing it probably.<br /><br />I usually am really good with words (it is part of my job too ha ha) but when I am very emotional, I don't seem to find the adequate words to describe what I want to say. I am quite an intense and warm person (my Latin temperament partly accounts for that) and intense feelings are hard to render. I hope however that even with modest words, I managed to make you feel, you all and not just the five above, my love and my gratitude.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Thank you. </span>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com73tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-88593406127844029802008-05-07T00:39:00.000-07:002008-05-07T00:46:48.800-07:00People, this is literature<a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji </a>tagged me for a literary meme. This is how it goes:<br /><br />1. Pick up the nearest book.<br />2. Turn to page 123<br />3. Find the fifth sentence<br />4. Post the next three sentences.<br />5. Tag five people and acknowledge who tagged you.<br /><br />The book I've been reading is in Romanian and I'm going to do my best to translate... It is <span style="font-style: italic;">Beauty and Sadness</span>, by Yasunari Kawabata (one of my favorite writers ever). And here's the quote:<br /><br />"... You do know who Sanetaka was, don't you?<br />- A nobleman, right?<br />- Everybody knows that!"<br /><br />I tag <a href="http://kittycouture.blogspot.com/" "target=_blank">Isabelle</a>, <a href="http://couturefrenzy.blogspot.com/" "target=_blank">Berry</a>, <a href="http://sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com/" "target=_blank">Sigrid</a>, <a href="http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.com/" "target=_blank">Carolyn </a>and <a href="http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/" "target=_blank">Summerset</a>.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-757196425513736422008-04-21T08:05:00.001-07:002008-04-22T02:41:52.563-07:00Not Your Usual Basics - Final wardrobe<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpoK8HW1lwXEjfetPDnihCJllYM63Pz4co3d1_zNNx9H3MYqHeZws77U-Qwa5BazPjQGeLvr4-P8TKWMVpHcY3Ely4RtuFErhmn7C5FNSZ93AgFgwwwPIoqj3DRDMhz2qAV0nIh0a4Obf3/s1600-h/DSCN3213.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpoK8HW1lwXEjfetPDnihCJllYM63Pz4co3d1_zNNx9H3MYqHeZws77U-Qwa5BazPjQGeLvr4-P8TKWMVpHcY3Ely4RtuFErhmn7C5FNSZ93AgFgwwwPIoqj3DRDMhz2qAV0nIh0a4Obf3/s400/DSCN3213.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191715235647608402" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqM7AQYcis6OdO9_BzBtPFSdzEqUZt_Poec9iRsl2kCF-laTWpblUxJSKm-k89mgGe5L9BG9_2DDnuPq1c7jPiNJORJn-LIdzDpkApwCqVBkYY4dMFwKmBtCJcOo4rmb-Dxifcg9FvY-Ja/s1600-h/DSCN3214.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqM7AQYcis6OdO9_BzBtPFSdzEqUZt_Poec9iRsl2kCF-laTWpblUxJSKm-k89mgGe5L9BG9_2DDnuPq1c7jPiNJORJn-LIdzDpkApwCqVBkYY4dMFwKmBtCJcOo4rmb-Dxifcg9FvY-Ja/s400/DSCN3214.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191715248532510306" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual coat</span> – pattern 115 from Burda World of Fashion no 11/2007 - described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/03/swap-item-5-not-your-usual-coat.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post (first garment in that post) and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=26641" target="_blank"">this </a>review<o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual little black dress</span> – Vogue 8280- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/not-your-usual-little-black-dress.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=27386" target="_blank"">this </a>review<o:p></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual white shirt 1 </span>(with black piping) – pattern 108 from Burda World of Fashion no 1/2008- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/03/swap-item-6-not-your-usual-white-shirt.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=26827" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual white shirt 2 </span>– pattern 109 from Burda World of Fashion no 3/2008- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/last-swap-item.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post<br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual pintuck shirt</span> – Vogue 2813 Donna Karan (wardrobe pattern)- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/swap-item-8.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=27385" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual wrap top </span>– pattern 116 from Burda World of Fashion no 1/2008- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/02/timmel-swap-items-3-and-4.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=26151" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual silk blouse</span> – self-drafted using the instructions in Pattern Magic vol. 2 and the bodice sloper from Mrs. Stylebook - described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/swap-item-10.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=27912" target="_blank"">this </a>review<o:p><br /></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual A-line skirt</span> - Vogue 2813 Donna Karan (wardrobe pattern)- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/im-back.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=27355" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual pencil skirt </span>– pattern 122 from Burda World of Fashion <span style=""> </span>no 12/2007- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-could-i-manage-so-far-without.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=25845" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual jeans</span> – copied after one of my RTW pairs - described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/02/timmel-swap-items-3-and-4.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=26152" target="_blank"" com="" bin="" readreview="1&reviewnum=26152">this </a>review</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual black pants</span> - Vogue 2813 Donna Karan (wardrobe pattern)- described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-could-i-manage-so-far-without.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post and <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=25830" target="_blank"">this </a>review</p><o:p></o:p><o:p></o:p> <p class="MsoNormal">This year I really felt that there was a strong idea behind my SWAP. I recently discovered that I don’t have enough basics in my wardrobe and an initial list of things to sew started to form in my head. Then the idea went further and I decided to make my SWAP a wardrobe of basics… now, part of those basics are to be found in any book or list of things you should have and others, like not your usual pintuck shirt or not your usual silk blouse are my own idea of basics :)<span style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span style=""></span></span><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p>I knew I wanted to sew a basic wardrobe but at the same time, I knew I wanted each item to be one that I would wear a lot if not to death, therefore it was important to add a personal touch to all the items. Hand embroidery on a skirt, pintuck embellishments on another, delicate handmade roses on a dress, piping and covered dotted buttons on another blouse… All this to make these items speak about me and to result in a wardrobe of not your usual basics. Or basics with a twist. </p>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com54tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-39559685033853371312008-04-21T07:12:00.001-07:002008-04-22T00:32:15.033-07:00Last SWAP itemA second "Not your usual white shirt"<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmVxA2msvTiQSzDkZ13xYrE1PSNzgS2jU74Cjc1kzBVDaVooxyMgXMFNPcvSLCiQG3rokdeh7CfAB05LLyla3Z-LnlEjmhN1at2W5rISf6l4OTutC_w1mCKbEvCqSSzLQazDgYWjIevzT/s1600-h/DSCN3209.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmVxA2msvTiQSzDkZ13xYrE1PSNzgS2jU74Cjc1kzBVDaVooxyMgXMFNPcvSLCiQG3rokdeh7CfAB05LLyla3Z-LnlEjmhN1at2W5rISf6l4OTutC_w1mCKbEvCqSSzLQazDgYWjIevzT/s400/DSCN3209.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191701659255985650" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteZ7Vg4oCpjqdbjJ77sBT9rAK8V8aucpmg1So5XPqmlZ_UAxzmPf-a14Kgh-liTsa8sHi92mh6ItY-Ano8d_qK_lMEEZoVNXPvbI7LGGWXw2HLxm6nHRsp80IwrTZcdyRocpiOUhDpSct/s1600-h/DSCN3210.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteZ7Vg4oCpjqdbjJ77sBT9rAK8V8aucpmg1So5XPqmlZ_UAxzmPf-a14Kgh-liTsa8sHi92mh6ItY-Ano8d_qK_lMEEZoVNXPvbI7LGGWXw2HLxm6nHRsp80IwrTZcdyRocpiOUhDpSct/s400/DSCN3210.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191701667845920274" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is pattern 109 from BWOF 03/2008. Thank God for <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Christina</a>, who made this blouse - <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/2008/03/bwof-project-of-month-march-or-what-to.html" target="_blank'">here</a>'s her beautiful version - and warned us all that the hem of the cap sleeve cuts into your arm. At her advice, I cut the sleeve on the bias and it is quite alright.<br /><br />What I like about this blouse is the very trendy design, the feminine shape, its versatility (it can be worn both outside or tucked in, with jeans or a dressy skirt). Oh and the eyelet from Julie is absolutely gorgeous. I have enough left for another blouse and I am really happy about it.<br /><br />In case you make this pattern, a word of warning: the bias-cut belt is seriously shorter than the bodice, therefore when you pin it on the top, it won't lie flat. Don't worry, this is how it should be. When you wear the blouse, the belt cups your bust in a great way. It's very flattering. And not tight at all.<br /><br />The blouse lying flat.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Cei5DE7nO4yDK4cp2E665zUKOps0tr1qWLOoAkmVeGcPeKtPrM8IblbQ8js4zd3HoW0yX2WgySC1MtCVgmuyo1inoPx7I-0acnOxQKpYAWmTC6ZWOCPE5HTqhs-PnUVTsd00s4eV9BPp/s1600-h/DSCN3221.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Cei5DE7nO4yDK4cp2E665zUKOps0tr1qWLOoAkmVeGcPeKtPrM8IblbQ8js4zd3HoW0yX2WgySC1MtCVgmuyo1inoPx7I-0acnOxQKpYAWmTC6ZWOCPE5HTqhs-PnUVTsd00s4eV9BPp/s400/DSCN3221.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191701663550952962" border="0" /></a><br /><br />No inside fancy views for this one. It's just cleanly serged and that's it.<br /><br />I love this top and see a lot of tops like this in my near future - I have some pieces of beautiful flowery viscose chiffon that would look great for this pattern, and I'm thinking of using batiste or nylon sheer for an underlining - doing it the "Hong Kong" way :) of course. See <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/underlining-and-hong-kong-seam.html" target="_blank"">here </a>what I mean if you're at my blog for the first time.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-27046431784410329292008-04-21T06:00:00.000-07:002008-04-21T06:47:35.326-07:00SWAP item #10OK it's been more than a week since I've finished the SWAP but haven't blogged about it. I didn't have the time to take pictures until yesterday and to write a short text until right now. I sent them to Julie and now I'm trying to catch up a bit with my own blog.<br /><br />I felt like this year's SWAP was cursed for me. Work was busier and more stressful these last months than ever, leaving me very little time to sew. I can't recall a time like that for me in the past 10 years! One week before the end of the SWAP, I had the 10th item half-done and I felt really burned out. I wanted to give up, really, I wanted all the stress to go away. Luckily, I've received encouragement (there will be a separate post on this) and I decided to go on. I said to myself: OK, I have a week, I will take my time to finish this blouse and my final item will be a blouse that I've sewn in January (see it in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-could-i-manage-so-far-without.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post, scroll to the end). It's black and white, it goes with everything else, that's it! And then, on Tuesday night - that Friday was the deadline to end the SWAP - it suddenly dawns on me and I nearly had a panic attack! I hadn't use the fabric I bought from Julie and that was a requirement for the contest! Awful! So I had to gather all my strength and make a final blouse from the beautiful eyelet that I bought from Julie. I took that Tuesday off (I had a very bad cold anyway, my sewing table was filled with aspirin and paper handkerchiefs) and I cut and sewn a blouse...<br /><br />To make things short, I will introduce you to my SWAP item #10 in this post, there will be a separate post on SWAP item #11 and another one presenting the composite photo and some outfits.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual silk blouse </span><span>(sorry, I ran out of inspiration for titles :), but then in my book a silk blouse has become a basic, a must-have)<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZIj9NCz5eXMPFrhoC1fPHHuUvjKipb3nAB7DRROtZdLXiIRenxlesn0zIeaRfuBz-C859Y-r5A2ZTqpe9TKhYevqP4MKHIrQgthcAKUcxm7PI7-Rlhg8pIYCJtfsokmBNGp1BMOD0qJC/s1600-h/DSCN3213.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZIj9NCz5eXMPFrhoC1fPHHuUvjKipb3nAB7DRROtZdLXiIRenxlesn0zIeaRfuBz-C859Y-r5A2ZTqpe9TKhYevqP4MKHIrQgthcAKUcxm7PI7-Rlhg8pIYCJtfsokmBNGp1BMOD0qJC/s400/DSCN3213.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688525245994370" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /></span><span>This blouse is made out of a very beautiful silk, with a texture, you'll see that in a close-up further below. This silk was part of my second price in the PR Wardrobe Contest 2007 and it comes from <a href="http://www.textilestudiopatterns.com/" target="_blank"">Textilestudiopatterns</a>.<br /><br />The pattern is self-drafted, using one of the models in Pattern Magic volume 2 - see <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/PATTERN-MAGIC-vol-2-Japanese-Fashion-Design-Book_W0QQitemZ110243824224QQihZ001QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem" target="_blank"">here </a>some pictures included in the book. I've used a Mrs. Stylebook sloper to draft the blouse and I was happy to find scans of the sloper, for download on Twistedangel's Studio <a href="http://www.twistedangelstudio.com/" target="_blank"">blog </a>- go <a href="http://twistedangelstudio.com/downloads/zip/mrsstylebook/MrsStylebookSloper_77to89.zip" target="_blank"">here </a>for the sloper in bust sizes 77-89 in cm (approx 30-35 in inches) and <a href="http://twistedangelstudio.com/downloads/zip/mrsstylebook/MrsStylebookSloper_89to104.zip" target="_blank"">here </a>for bust sizes 89-104 cm (35-41 in inches).<br /><br />Speaking of the sloper, I made a muslin and here are my findings: the Japanese are very petite, the bodice was a bit short. The armhole length was OK, but you should add a bit (I've added about 6 mm - approx 1/4") either between armhole and waist, or simply at the waist seam (that's what I did). The sloper runs a bit large, I tried size 83 (although my bust is 84) and I finally went down a size and used 80 which was fine.<br /><br />I drafted a short sleeve using the instruction for another blouse from Pattern Magic (my blouse was sleeveless) and I added the "peplum" (I guess it's not exactly a peplum but I really can't recall the appropriate word) from Simplicity <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=search.cfm&numMatch=2&design_id=13883&design=4047&thumbnail_image=4047t.jpg&ldesc=Misses%201950%27s%20Retro%20Cropped%20Pants%2C%20Skirt%2C%20Top%2C%20Sash%20and%20Lined%20Jacket&size_range=6%20to%2022&status_num=2" target="_blank"">4047</a>.<br /><br />Here's my pattern (without the peplum part):<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNeycvFh_ilUdEZiYPqGV9vndJ_t872LY4b6_pQAohOgWcqeeqeMW4wFZUl3ygzaeqSr3kJP8GIs2Xq06ZQZFeigzCe50Oo8mM4Zp_UH7PR5cfPQBslC8P4oLH4wlPEW2nbQ379HZ-E1I/s1600-h/DSCN3227.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNeycvFh_ilUdEZiYPqGV9vndJ_t872LY4b6_pQAohOgWcqeeqeMW4wFZUl3ygzaeqSr3kJP8GIs2Xq06ZQZFeigzCe50Oo8mM4Zp_UH7PR5cfPQBslC8P4oLH4wlPEW2nbQ379HZ-E1I/s400/DSCN3227.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688903203116514" border="0" /></a><br /><span><br />The front part extends into the back, forming a yoke. That yoke also forms a fold at the neck that gives that folding effect in the front. It's all folding!<br /><br />See the front of the blouse lying flat and how the fold is formed at the back neck, extending into diagonal folds in the front.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCe4yjBleRexPe5Ynl2A34KShkRKYW3HtrVFQRoYdQ4DXJAkDo4hbaiFASrrmfuz9DHZFNiGwkUI8K0F3OzvFbbA7zugpyNcmQ2gVHmN3uPHdng5G36jmfD5nnyLUYjYCOE0RGlBkuocsw/s1600-h/DSCN3225.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCe4yjBleRexPe5Ynl2A34KShkRKYW3HtrVFQRoYdQ4DXJAkDo4hbaiFASrrmfuz9DHZFNiGwkUI8K0F3OzvFbbA7zugpyNcmQ2gVHmN3uPHdng5G36jmfD5nnyLUYjYCOE0RGlBkuocsw/s400/DSCN3225.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688546720830914" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The bust dart being rotated at the center front, this blouse must have a center front seam. I didn't want such a seam, nor did I want the blouse to button at front. Therefore I made button loops out of the silk and simulated a fake button closure, by covering buttons in silk. See a close-up below (you can also see the special texture of the fabric).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBYs1yNpYvi1-m6CR6_aJGDyzmB54lH3g-vs_Cw9GSs1ciIRjQZAeMnlT0XtuxDO5V0gcJt5P8JSZ2by7WyRVAnv8gPe1GHltFOvNJV6oPPgO9OHYOUuclLZ7qndeR6sXcb5v4lq7Bka-/s1600-h/DSCN3226.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBYs1yNpYvi1-m6CR6_aJGDyzmB54lH3g-vs_Cw9GSs1ciIRjQZAeMnlT0XtuxDO5V0gcJt5P8JSZ2by7WyRVAnv8gPe1GHltFOvNJV6oPPgO9OHYOUuclLZ7qndeR6sXcb5v4lq7Bka-/s400/DSCN3226.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688898908149202" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The blouse has French seams, the armholes, zipper opening (invisible zipper on the left side) and hem are bound in silk charmeuse.<br /><br />Front of the blouse wrong side out<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeaaFV6IA2ule6Eb6PjhTuI-3dVGo5xXlbBghqsSGREbytCOPqMYE8oje-LJiAMhoVujKktkfClzznO_k61gccRYJiqNheic3MsD_v-mo13HWc8kJzQ8oIRvU-lljZPDKZda1n1kf564Y_/s1600-h/DSCN3222.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeaaFV6IA2ule6Eb6PjhTuI-3dVGo5xXlbBghqsSGREbytCOPqMYE8oje-LJiAMhoVujKktkfClzznO_k61gccRYJiqNheic3MsD_v-mo13HWc8kJzQ8oIRvU-lljZPDKZda1n1kf564Y_/s400/DSCN3222.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688533835928978" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back of the blouse wrong side out (see how it is unfolded in this photo, in the photo showing the blouse lying flat, the fold at the back neck covers my label).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9pTuruDeqAZ27Pji68k9-a6aA2oqK_EwOkJPid7E3ete7-PTjsL3VBTe7AwJa7LxQYe-txEQv_TKm9gUvLCHLWgMMDyKZWs8qq26M4G3ArW_u8xhRUZ9bIl4Co7XSPdHUa1EHDxl5uCT/s1600-h/DSCN3223.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9pTuruDeqAZ27Pji68k9-a6aA2oqK_EwOkJPid7E3ete7-PTjsL3VBTe7AwJa7LxQYe-txEQv_TKm9gUvLCHLWgMMDyKZWs8qq26M4G3ArW_u8xhRUZ9bIl4Co7XSPdHUa1EHDxl5uCT/s400/DSCN3223.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688538130896290" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Close-up of binding and French seams.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIo9xiaERH52_wZZDs7bvX4gle1F4hdizdpbPE0zCC1edLyphUGoglq55zyaXYG4yD-yOA2iUewA3nS7GDBjVGa6sVkCkLhtyvYkWjGsW8ZRw8zijErH935DFXsgE6hPyi50zLWyXxsb1/s1600-h/DSCN3224.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIo9xiaERH52_wZZDs7bvX4gle1F4hdizdpbPE0zCC1edLyphUGoglq55zyaXYG4yD-yOA2iUewA3nS7GDBjVGa6sVkCkLhtyvYkWjGsW8ZRw8zijErH935DFXsgE6hPyi50zLWyXxsb1/s400/DSCN3224.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191688542425863602" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I love this blouse although I think this kind of pattern might be better in a stiffer fabric (I'm planning to starch that back part that folds anyway). Pattern Magic is an amazing book, it got me hooked immediately. Adding the peplum to the blouse and making it in silk gave it a vintage feel in my opinion. And I love that. You'll see in my SWAP post that this blouse, tucked inside my high waist pants gives a very 40s feeling.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-55741684088063055712008-04-02T07:03:00.001-07:002008-04-03T05:01:14.442-07:00Rose tutorial<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYFjZOl2KaygV4OLdIJTTk-SzGGAK2Jb3sfpbbAuFt6uniEM344j9rWqrLqnVwrDV6A61tb6GIcNglJgFs-AMLJDInOu1MUp_OiD95lxzecoybHo0QT_r7QjjuRoJdFrJnfKNPaiNOHve/s1600-h/DSCN3192.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYFjZOl2KaygV4OLdIJTTk-SzGGAK2Jb3sfpbbAuFt6uniEM344j9rWqrLqnVwrDV6A61tb6GIcNglJgFs-AMLJDInOu1MUp_OiD95lxzecoybHo0QT_r7QjjuRoJdFrJnfKNPaiNOHve/s400/DSCN3192.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916703268308994" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Before showing you how I made the roses, I'd like to thank you all for your comments and appreciation. They did a lot for my morale, especially since when I feel tired, I tend to feel a bit down too. So thank you, my love goes to all of you!<br /><br />Now, to answer some comments... <a href="http://www.fehrtrade.com/" target="_blank"">Melissa</a>, I did insert a link to the nylon sheer on Elingeria, it is in the underlining post, just at the beginning when I'm talking about Powerdry and nylon sheer.<br /><br /><a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Leslie</a>, I think you're new to my blog (sorry if I'm mistaken) therefore welcome! You're perfectly right, point 3) in the underlining tutorial should read "right sides together" not "wrong sides together". Thank you for bringing that to my attention, it is now corrected.<br /><br /><a href="http://hongkongshopper.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Vicki</a>, this underlining method supposes that you fitted the pattern first. You can cut larger seam allowances on the fashion fabric and underlining, but you cannot (or it supposes ripping most of your work off) adjust the darts. I'm lucky to have an average figure and patterns usually fit me more or less right out of the envelope. I only do a petite alteration and I'm fine. For this particular pattern however, there is a reason why there are wider seam allowances. I usually cut a size 6 in Big 4 patterns and many times I thought that I could even cut a size 4. This pattern was the first to come in size 4 so stupid me, I challenged my luck and cut directly a 4 (I don't trace patterns, I cut them directly, I know I shouldn't....). The 4 was a wadder, it fitted me but it was too tight for my liking. Therefore on this dress, I cut wider seam allowances to make sure I'm ok. I should indeed buy a new camera pretty soon but it hasn't been top priority for two reasons: 1) I'm spending a lot on sewing books, notions, gadgets, fabrics etc; 2) when I take detail pictures, those are really ok, only pictures of myself wearing the garment, taken with the self-timer are blurry.<br /><br />And now, this is how I made the roses. First of all , it's not an original idea, I had a rose like that on a hair clip. I just unglued it and took it apart, copied the pattern and tried to figure out how it was made.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.box.net/shared/1rbx0kh0kg" target="_blank"">Download the rose pattern here</a>. You'll see that there are two pieces, A and B, to be cut both from organza and silk or satin, on fold and on the bias. There is a third piece that I forgot to include in the pattern: piece C (for the ruffle) to be cut on grain, only in organza, it is a long strip, 6 cm wide ( approx 2 1/8") and 40 cm long (approx. 15 1/3"). I'm now looking at my pattern and am not sure if the foldline is clear, therefore the fold is the longer side of the trapeze on piece A and the longer side of the triangle on piece B.<br /><br />For one rose: Cut piece A one time in organza and one time in silk. Cut piece B four times in organza and four times in silk. Cut piece C one time in organza.<br /><br />Now, take the two pieces A (in organza and in silk), fold them and press. Don't press too much, you don't want a very crisp, dead fold. Put the two pieces together, the silk one on top of the organza one. Fold both corners and press like in the photo below:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqyuW4moZmsgDcMHdowmr86K2jABL5qyN3Sp7MW7sjGEmX7Za1FLcphWnBWprdnC8aHcls90oghy7c29R2sTc6PPPWb3rIghzSogZS2d1r08DT13FkIOX1D-iMZso2R3ROCsECaZx9na6/s1600-h/DSCN3161.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqyuW4moZmsgDcMHdowmr86K2jABL5qyN3Sp7MW7sjGEmX7Za1FLcphWnBWprdnC8aHcls90oghy7c29R2sTc6PPPWb3rIghzSogZS2d1r08DT13FkIOX1D-iMZso2R3ROCsECaZx9na6/s400/DSCN3161.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916935196542994" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Starting from one of the folded corners, roll the bud (piece A is the bud of the rose, pieces B are the petals) around itself until you're satisfied with the shape:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTyGU800A577yUbmPit4ScEZ-V5H57uttEtPpyBqY2ImbpKcXcSqxkaRYGCdyBQhEJ-jZQN8gsOGM4qvULYG13Z21_FLTXL6jCXE7NxAMTaYTKzslqdE2lHJ3OyvzdXc-XaH4p4m33DEW/s1600-h/DSCN3162.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTyGU800A577yUbmPit4ScEZ-V5H57uttEtPpyBqY2ImbpKcXcSqxkaRYGCdyBQhEJ-jZQN8gsOGM4qvULYG13Z21_FLTXL6jCXE7NxAMTaYTKzslqdE2lHJ3OyvzdXc-XaH4p4m33DEW/s400/DSCN3162.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916939491510306" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Tie a piece of thread around the bottom of the bud, to secure the shape:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHMqpzwHoVIN4kAryMXbnNt1mB2zALGuf3WD4Mg1ae0mlCWWfq6bxhzGi5R0ESqM9nDuIoBCcuDgky759KgLc-ZM5OhGvfOpyNVdTygK1-AH2HZuJXPAAnKe-y5bbM2h0x1X4TfmCCcT3/s1600-h/DSCN3166.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHMqpzwHoVIN4kAryMXbnNt1mB2zALGuf3WD4Mg1ae0mlCWWfq6bxhzGi5R0ESqM9nDuIoBCcuDgky759KgLc-ZM5OhGvfOpyNVdTygK1-AH2HZuJXPAAnKe-y5bbM2h0x1X4TfmCCcT3/s400/DSCN3166.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916939491510322" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Trim if needed, apply a bit of Fraycheck.<br /><br />Now for the petals: again, fold all the pieces on the fold line and press in place. Put one piece in organza and one in silk together, with the silk on top.<br /><br />Thread your needle and sew running stitches through one of the small sides of the first double (organza and silk) triangle. When you reach the top (peak?) of the triangle, place the second triangle on the first, with the right corner of the second triangle overlapping on the top of the first triangle. Continue with running stitches until you sewed together all the triangles. Hope the picture below speaks for itself, I'm not sure that my explanations are very clear.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPBC54N71WnONWHK_9GTqVJi508ahQTx4nKdeLs9k34bHnUf69ufk_SgaBq53_a2XHrQJOuYN22HneMM_BAPuoYozBf_Pk5pE6lRYYrtSvYwPNC9CF_F2KOUeZx3PYAh6J6ZNkyZZRjTB/s1600-h/DSCN3167.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPBC54N71WnONWHK_9GTqVJi508ahQTx4nKdeLs9k34bHnUf69ufk_SgaBq53_a2XHrQJOuYN22HneMM_BAPuoYozBf_Pk5pE6lRYYrtSvYwPNC9CF_F2KOUeZx3PYAh6J6ZNkyZZRjTB/s400/DSCN3167.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916943786477634" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Once you're finished, pulled the running/gathering stitches and form the shape of the rose around the bud, by wrapping the petals sewn and gathered together around the bud:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwWADs1Ly1DnB6D5CbznKNkkkrgNouoR_5OPy8Sn7G9ZAoa6x5dJSNPXQq0YxqskBJcKe1fpZWDKkLWG7n2tjZ1zAPNr7deV5RROHuuT9bgs2hCGNFJbAlDSRg6iVQLV2S4Uo7hJdkhGo/s1600-h/DSCN3169.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwWADs1Ly1DnB6D5CbznKNkkkrgNouoR_5OPy8Sn7G9ZAoa6x5dJSNPXQq0YxqskBJcKe1fpZWDKkLWG7n2tjZ1zAPNr7deV5RROHuuT9bgs2hCGNFJbAlDSRg6iVQLV2S4Uo7hJdkhGo/s400/DSCN3169.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184916948081444946" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Gather more or less, as you wish. Once you're satisfied with the shape obtained, secure it in place at the bottom of the rose, with several hand stitches.<br /><br />Fold piece C lengthwise and press in place. Run gathering stitches through one of the lengths. Gather forming a ruffle. Be careful, the ruffle is not a full circle, it is only a part of a circle, you need to leave clear the part where the two roses join, as below:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH35xnUw1ExOtPB7vi-rcnhHc9Uj_X1NXN_j26vRi_1cM8gLWNCKBYKS10n47c8DElrlqGYMiZQhyphenhyphenhLyh-g5zKO3Qfl0ohn7qk3NdEoTQgByVhotzHCqKGOuWLVHxrOXlsOPidlue3MJ1n/s1600-h/DSCN3170.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH35xnUw1ExOtPB7vi-rcnhHc9Uj_X1NXN_j26vRi_1cM8gLWNCKBYKS10n47c8DElrlqGYMiZQhyphenhyphenhLyh-g5zKO3Qfl0ohn7qk3NdEoTQgByVhotzHCqKGOuWLVHxrOXlsOPidlue3MJ1n/s400/DSCN3170.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184985092032563298" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Glue a rose on each ruffle.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdXbJRswd2likTu_UipM_CVbFQwiQzSPOwE5xK_2br8L8ahhzeYqmc1cA9pKjT3sq3EY5t6E5_ClrCS-U92t7ieqVvo4uCsnpyW770iUe1j7fGxa1usWo1y2Sd3h05nzV9gGXtVZHaPfD/s1600-h/DSCN3171.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdXbJRswd2likTu_UipM_CVbFQwiQzSPOwE5xK_2br8L8ahhzeYqmc1cA9pKjT3sq3EY5t6E5_ClrCS-U92t7ieqVvo4uCsnpyW770iUe1j7fGxa1usWo1y2Sd3h05nzV9gGXtVZHaPfD/s400/DSCN3171.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184985096327530610" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Glue the two roses on a piece of velvet ribbon for a belt or a choker. Sew them on a headband. Glue them on a hair clip or get crazy and sew dozens of them on the corsage or hem of a dress. Sky is the limit :)LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-8167205996752719552008-04-02T05:50:00.001-07:002008-04-02T06:26:09.153-07:00Not your usual little black dressMany beautiful dresses have been made using the Roland Mouret-inspired Vogue <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8280.htm?search=V8280&page=1" target="_blank"">8280 </a>pattern. I won't mention any in particular, cause I'm afraid I might forget anyone and not do justice to them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLBtgANyPvPsF0Owm4iIV3929cjCMWvtXolFAcNbuoeJTwjrnLwYvqdqguNOPQK9SCLlWsvQkdUtjwmrwm6QuGTV4eLky4-KwnNcyD2buPd910RQFD53I72CF8kaqZ-Ij8Lq8fkeFiW1Y/s1600-h/DSCN3191.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLBtgANyPvPsF0Owm4iIV3929cjCMWvtXolFAcNbuoeJTwjrnLwYvqdqguNOPQK9SCLlWsvQkdUtjwmrwm6QuGTV4eLky4-KwnNcyD2buPd910RQFD53I72CF8kaqZ-Ij8Lq8fkeFiW1Y/s400/DSCN3191.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184634399362910194" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is my interpretation of this pattern. I chose the sleeveless version, because I want to be able to dress it down too, by wearing a white t-shirt underneath or a black long-sleeve. This is one of the things that I absolutely love about basics: you can dress them up or down so easily and transform the respective item completely.<br /><br />The fabric has tiny white dots, I think you can see them in some of the close-ups.<br /><br />The entire dress is underlined with nylon sheer. The step-by-step tutorial can be found <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/04/underlining-and-hong-kong-seam.html" target="_blank"">here</a>.<br /><br />Underlining the top parts was a bit more difficult and this is how I did it: the flange is overlapped with the front and I didn't want that much bulk. I therefore cut the respective part from the front piece, so I can simply sew together the flange and the front.<br /><br />After sewing the darts on both the fashion fabric and the underlining, I assembled the flange and the front pieces, thus obtaining two finished front pieces: one in the fashion fabric and one in the underlining. I then assembled the shoulders, leaving the side seams opened.<br /><br />The next step was sewing the side seams of the fashion fabric and underlining together, using the above-mentioned technique of underlining and Hong Kong seam finishing in one. Turned and pressed but not stitched in the ditch yet.<br /><br />Wrong sides together, I joined the fashion fabric and underlining at the neckline and the armholes. I turned it right side out (you still have the waist seam open), understitched as far as possible. Gave the entire thing a good press and then I sewed in the ditch, finishing the Hong Kong at the side seams. Treating the fabric and the underlining as one, I sewn the back part and the front part at the side seams. To keep everything in place, I stitched in the ditch at the shoulder stitching, thus securing the fashion fabric to the underlining. Kind of hard to explain in "not your maternal language" :).<br /><br />I added a satin polkadotted ribbon at the waist. It is not meant to be a waist stay, because the dress doesn't need one, but to cover nicely the serged seams. Plus I really love the mix of tiny-tiny dots with bigger dots. I've used the same ribbon to cover and finish the end of the zipper. The hem is bias-bound, as always.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTw7fZPloFf7djpWVuzZZMWLT3jroZ2X_IAw8cHl61ar7AlIAF8FgkhuuHy9GUc0PjUSAUHoHveotiY4fnvz4TLFX7mWda-lEpCAmuBltA6DB49OfDlt5rSMpBQfR3a-BUqyZ6b8_HTyE/s1600-h/DSCN3195.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTw7fZPloFf7djpWVuzZZMWLT3jroZ2X_IAw8cHl61ar7AlIAF8FgkhuuHy9GUc0PjUSAUHoHveotiY4fnvz4TLFX7mWda-lEpCAmuBltA6DB49OfDlt5rSMpBQfR3a-BUqyZ6b8_HTyE/s400/DSCN3195.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184629726438492114" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCZgKW4TJkGu9BEjmDqwYmCQ3b3mC-hH-1qJztwAzOE04pOKHCYnhr6nBgVcuBE4Mtk87GpIpU0w4nlbbf3vuOPKSCTKA3tKLma-qMDdEwtit1LZCrNfELOSqyN8YEjc0keHsBdAdBa-u/s1600-h/DSCN3194.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCZgKW4TJkGu9BEjmDqwYmCQ3b3mC-hH-1qJztwAzOE04pOKHCYnhr6nBgVcuBE4Mtk87GpIpU0w4nlbbf3vuOPKSCTKA3tKLma-qMDdEwtit1LZCrNfELOSqyN8YEjc0keHsBdAdBa-u/s400/DSCN3194.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184629726438492098" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The zipper is put in by hand, using a small backstitch and inserting a small black bead at each stitch - the technique of hand-picking a zipper using beads or not is described by Susan Khalje in <a href="http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00202.asp" target="_blank"">this </a>online extra from Threads.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUyYVco8zsioLHgw6bUCDNrpn2GuVOhJ7hyBYLMhHzD8C0_bD_1pD0RdqfvH9XkbRw7HL7E8d2bntahN6lpOnTrilf6QP-5KwXjiYUHdnYgO3WM8AiAiszjVH3dhl-lVNANYKJJBRuciu/s1600-h/DSCN3193.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUyYVco8zsioLHgw6bUCDNrpn2GuVOhJ7hyBYLMhHzD8C0_bD_1pD0RdqfvH9XkbRw7HL7E8d2bntahN6lpOnTrilf6QP-5KwXjiYUHdnYgO3WM8AiAiszjVH3dhl-lVNANYKJJBRuciu/s400/DSCN3193.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184629717848557490" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And here's a close-up of the belt.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SBLIckAnYgxy9T7WzSdNvFpXg4VMoS9Baj5Ri2rxK5Kvmnf__enpPDTc1J54dsnDc6p3IgAc9CngB0IySL1qDoPAMJlEsLZughy7BpuLOOF6hKJWgcyq613HomAnQ6RDaRfXt2iQcLPP/s1600-h/DSCN3192.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SBLIckAnYgxy9T7WzSdNvFpXg4VMoS9Baj5Ri2rxK5Kvmnf__enpPDTc1J54dsnDc6p3IgAc9CngB0IySL1qDoPAMJlEsLZughy7BpuLOOF6hKJWgcyq613HomAnQ6RDaRfXt2iQcLPP/s400/DSCN3192.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184629730733459426" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The two roses are made from white silk and black organza, cut on the bias, plus a black organza ruffle. They are then glued together on a piece of black velvet ribbon. A tutorial and pattern for the roses will follow either today or tomorrow.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-79584050656817023522008-04-02T04:01:00.000-07:002008-04-03T00:21:34.207-07:00Underlining and Hong Kong seam finishing in oneI promised some time ago that the next time I'll be making an underlined garment, I'll take pictures and try to describe the process.<br /><br />Recapping things said previously:<br /><ul><li>I'm very partial to underlining lately, I think I said it before on my blog, I like how the underlining moves with the fashion fabric, instead of having two separate garments joined at some seam, like in the case of lining. It is a subjective things, of course, but I'm going to use underlining instead of lining for most of my projects</li><li>Part of my great liking of underlinings is this gorgeous knit lining (nylon sheer, sold in many online stores as bra cup lining; my beautiful friend <a href="http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Marji </a>also recommends using Powerdry - which I don't know but from what I read about it, it is marvelous because it keeps your skin dry when you're sweating) that I'm using - it is stretchy, thin, it does not alter significantly the drape of pants and anyway it improves it, and it has a silky side that feels absolutely luxurious against the skin. Plus it really minimizes the wrinkling which is very important, taking into account that I spend long working days sitting at a desk.</li><li>IMPORTANT: I buy this nylon sheer locally and none of the stores sells online. But by looking at pictures on the <a href="http://www.elingeria.de/" target="_blank"">Elingeria </a>website, I think <a href="http://www.elingeria.de/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=nylon+sheer&x=0&y=0" target="_blank"">this </a>nylon sheer is what I use.<br /></li></ul>Technical details:<br /><br />I've used <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/review/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=1044" target="_blank"">this </a>tip on PR for underlining and giving a Hong Kong finish to the seams at the same time. I'd like to explain a bit this method, insisting on the turn of cloth. This method has you cutting the underlining fabric with a supplementary seam allowance of 5/8 (aprox. 1.6 cm) . Therefore the fashion fabric has a 5/8 (1.6 cm) seam allowance and the underlining fabric 5/8 x 2 = 1 1/4 (aprox. 3.2 cm). You then join the fashion fabric wrong side to the underlining wrong side with a 1/4 seam allowance. I must stress that it is very important: 1) to be able to cut accurate seam allowances (I use my rotary cutter and its guide arm); 2) to be able to sew accurate 1/4 seams - use your 1/4 foot if you have one, your zipper foot (mine sews an exact 1/4 seam allowance if I align its edge to the fabric edge). I use my normal foot and a special setting on my machine which allows me to sew an 1/4 straight stitch seam. Now, from the supplementary 5/8 (1.6 cm) seam allowance, 1/4 is caught in the seam (0.6 cm), another 1/4 (0.6 cm) wraps over this 1/4 seam creating the Hong Kong finish and the remaining 1/8 (aprox. 0.3-0.4 cm) is for the turn of cloth. Now, if your fabric is especially thick or thin, you should increase/decrease the turn of cloth and the respective supplementary seam allowance of the underlining fabric. For a thick fabric, you'd cut more than 5/8 supplementary allowance, for a thin fabric, less.<br /><br />My fabric for this project is a medium weight one, therefore I used 1" (approx. 2.5 cm) supplementary seam allowance on the underlining.<br /><br />1) Cut your fashion fabric with "normal" seam allowances. Cut your underlining with another 1" seam allowances, or a bit less or a bit more (see above). I use my rotary cutter and its arm to cut accurate seam allowances. This is very important. See here the difference between the two pieces. <span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_oUb0xf6DsQ6YfE1Br_HiC50vUgJt75L8D0sg-_mcrBmWSGeaxaNL3W5bMQaj-9j_c8Vlo3lw0EssIQyssj5dni6w8UDaNOPwG2LpKU3hrEcnqx4qSCmCrcFPi4yy53UY8VlYq-Nmwtxr/s1600-h/DSCN3152.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_oUb0xf6DsQ6YfE1Br_HiC50vUgJt75L8D0sg-_mcrBmWSGeaxaNL3W5bMQaj-9j_c8Vlo3lw0EssIQyssj5dni6w8UDaNOPwG2LpKU3hrEcnqx4qSCmCrcFPi4yy53UY8VlYq-Nmwtxr/s400/DSCN3152.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184603514253084434" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Warning:</span> you only add the 1" supplement to vertical seams! The horizontal seams can be finished either using the method described by <a href="http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Shannon </a>in this <a href="http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/01/domb-luck-part-2.html" target="_blank"">post</a>, or by simply serging them, treating the fashion fabric and the underlining as one. Teaser pic... see how I serged the horizontal seams on my dress and then applied a ribbon, not to act as a waist stay (this dress doesn't need one), but just to make the seams look more beautiful.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrIpkbJBvCO5aiJhSBZx0AlUPFrr4Uvd1gc06X1qp0Yvd1ZNiX2178XTtMfkcNY8oIUkkGJUhEMPVpL2Px-du_0KVNBuozcEGqDPv4xtDctVBe2CDVic5uRdpIRVkFqd8GmFZ7hNFdQ1t0/s1600-h/DSCN3195.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrIpkbJBvCO5aiJhSBZx0AlUPFrr4Uvd1gc06X1qp0Yvd1ZNiX2178XTtMfkcNY8oIUkkGJUhEMPVpL2Px-du_0KVNBuozcEGqDPv4xtDctVBe2CDVic5uRdpIRVkFqd8GmFZ7hNFdQ1t0/s400/DSCN3195.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184605837830391698" border="0" /></a><br /><br />2) Sew the darts in both the fashion fabric and the underlining. Most of the time I press the fashion fabric darts towards the center of the garment and the underlining darts in the opposite direction, to minimize bulk:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRcxoOLbYaTtcmL4YX9rUpnOKcb3G5Qc_ov07UsTM5pZrkF4uoPJbaoIscmY7KAnoydBxG2WoIJsmvYZ6GqxELUCNDAh315KENkP8OzrsYwk-mnk3REnrrCO0eZ7hkzQkjg4FpRCST0jt/s1600-h/DSCN3153.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRcxoOLbYaTtcmL4YX9rUpnOKcb3G5Qc_ov07UsTM5pZrkF4uoPJbaoIscmY7KAnoydBxG2WoIJsmvYZ6GqxELUCNDAh315KENkP8OzrsYwk-mnk3REnrrCO0eZ7hkzQkjg4FpRCST0jt/s400/DSCN3153.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184603518548051746" border="0" /></a><br /><br />For my current project, there are quite large darts at the bust. I decided to slash and press open both the darts on the fashion fabric and on the underlining (only for the top part, the skirt, as you can see above, has the darts pressed in opposite directions):<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9SG89oa7vrklftGUk5u7LQ1uh_-p_n2x7lAr2dTyoBNGwRenccaXUC-UGv-ULciboKFI6TjgxsWtPTMQjE03LYorR3iULYcJicFBZYtCfNjxLZH2Hp0JrqRl7zViKFADxkJ5Ri7yJ_Zkj/s1600-h/DSCN3154.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9SG89oa7vrklftGUk5u7LQ1uh_-p_n2x7lAr2dTyoBNGwRenccaXUC-UGv-ULciboKFI6TjgxsWtPTMQjE03LYorR3iULYcJicFBZYtCfNjxLZH2Hp0JrqRl7zViKFADxkJ5Ri7yJ_Zkj/s400/DSCN3154.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184603522843019058" border="0" /></a><br /><br />3) Now, with the right sides together, sew all the vertical seams with a 1/4" (approx. 0.6 cm) seam allowance. I have an 1/4 foot now that makes this job easy. Before, I used my zigzag foot and adjusted the needle position or my zipper foot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBretDcm5bgsewj5STWvrz4000FcdWeRIUJ7CrCegSKCV7X-0bUEXqGxbDIE4KsxIZIoJV6WOsTNVKchrZwpcJaxwDlnL077rA1Y5X5VTB8-4vWVWoHuwIuwUZHYK7rBO4o8ze5q0okAzk/s1600-h/DSCN3155.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBretDcm5bgsewj5STWvrz4000FcdWeRIUJ7CrCegSKCV7X-0bUEXqGxbDIE4KsxIZIoJV6WOsTNVKchrZwpcJaxwDlnL077rA1Y5X5VTB8-4vWVWoHuwIuwUZHYK7rBO4o8ze5q0okAzk/s400/DSCN3155.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184603522843019074" border="0" /></a><br /><br />4) Open your seam allowances, then press them towards the underlining.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTtS7R13Lfb7UKhpKtIxMdHHf9W437PrLk9E8m00nJ0_f4fpZq81SFZD0FxGXJvFBZLtPEZvzNpz8y6870HefkVQp8s0Rt2ywzkXJnbDS2K5_6Pk2aW4f0MT3YvJgJJef-6sSo55QnAi6/s1600-h/DSCN3156.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTtS7R13Lfb7UKhpKtIxMdHHf9W437PrLk9E8m00nJ0_f4fpZq81SFZD0FxGXJvFBZLtPEZvzNpz8y6870HefkVQp8s0Rt2ywzkXJnbDS2K5_6Pk2aW4f0MT3YvJgJJef-6sSo55QnAi6/s400/DSCN3156.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184603527137986386" border="0" /></a><br /><br />5) Wrap the underlining over the seam allowances, creating a Hong Kong finish.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1vKDX0INReY7Osda1i1fE_LAOEZaWbaqO9yNjBstPMuxS28lCCYMCjW4BZt_wVD3kmpTV4aGszbHUGjXnHWbi9y5UmYno7C0W7TIekzHDia5FyBzZ_VfMfLO3NSvyCvVQv7r6_SsNHoB/s1600-h/DSCN3157.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1vKDX0INReY7Osda1i1fE_LAOEZaWbaqO9yNjBstPMuxS28lCCYMCjW4BZt_wVD3kmpTV4aGszbHUGjXnHWbi9y5UmYno7C0W7TIekzHDia5FyBzZ_VfMfLO3NSvyCvVQv7r6_SsNHoB/s400/DSCN3157.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184604003879356258" border="0" /></a><br /><br />6) Press in place and sew in the ditch. Ta-daaa, you're done!<br /><br />Here's how it looks on the right side:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlK-nE3s7zYEqPaAMWKHF9Vo0tOj-mOeBl8uLmiqA_5Uah8a6H9vRFGfeKD8hTV7MoI6DdYy8r5GJqde_gZTMLF0zDaZzRkXLHwLzEWmfw9nrhwV7uo70KNrJHOXarNjfINEz4RkF3AWu1/s1600-h/DSCN3158.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlK-nE3s7zYEqPaAMWKHF9Vo0tOj-mOeBl8uLmiqA_5Uah8a6H9vRFGfeKD8hTV7MoI6DdYy8r5GJqde_gZTMLF0zDaZzRkXLHwLzEWmfw9nrhwV7uo70KNrJHOXarNjfINEz4RkF3AWu1/s400/DSCN3158.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184604003879356274" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />And the wrong side:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncZWiEckzGrylt41LM7bJypP2bBJFo5PvNXxQlfBKgoE8pTX98rWcTWeTXNagHKvfePcrtHlEXpJ5xVI75FhUOBaEA0LDqtuC5nRgwPoBVwEExXmNTvVtDiGgfPkiDO3ppIMm4PhIr-WY/s1600-h/DSCN3159.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncZWiEckzGrylt41LM7bJypP2bBJFo5PvNXxQlfBKgoE8pTX98rWcTWeTXNagHKvfePcrtHlEXpJ5xVI75FhUOBaEA0LDqtuC5nRgwPoBVwEExXmNTvVtDiGgfPkiDO3ppIMm4PhIr-WY/s400/DSCN3159.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184604008174323586" border="0" /></a>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-36569149730127150592008-04-02T01:00:00.000-07:002008-04-02T02:18:39.079-07:00SWAP item #8My final item from my wardrobe pattern - Vogue <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2813.htm?search=donna%20karan&page=2" target="_blank"">2813</a>. I made the shirt from red silk twill.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzj3I63-KrfigP7ibDX4Ug9bcqkYevY3QOO0Xo57RrqezFCs2VZk42WhJUKvryK08hEHNn9uPDFCWH0hiprMQjDXvrXegeWREREBZzw_BlBwHi5PcvM7sH8N23MB68UkX4qX01aiIkdPvH/s1600-h/DSCN3182.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzj3I63-KrfigP7ibDX4Ug9bcqkYevY3QOO0Xo57RrqezFCs2VZk42WhJUKvryK08hEHNn9uPDFCWH0hiprMQjDXvrXegeWREREBZzw_BlBwHi5PcvM7sH8N23MB68UkX4qX01aiIkdPvH/s400/DSCN3182.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184570537494185634" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I love the look of the high buttoned collar and the long cuffs. I think the shirt has a bit the look of a groom shirt and this is one of the things that made me think of heirloom embellishing. My problem is I don't know what "not your usual" is this... not your usual silk shirt? Please suggest anything if your brain feels more rested and creative than mine right now :)<br /><br />So, I added a double pintuck with lace, sewn with my pintuck foot, a double needle and cording. See here a <a href="http://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/techniques/double-hemstitch-pintucks-lace.pdf" target="_blank"">factsheet </a>describing this technique. The pintuck and lace where thus placed as to camouflage the waist dart (you can see it in the pic where I show the wrong side of the shirt). After making this pintuck, the shirt looked like it needed something else, that unique pintuck looked a bit... isolated. Therefore I added two more corded pintucks. I knew that the shirt had plenty of ease around the chest and waist so I could afford to loose the bit that was taken into the pintucks.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEE0G65oCkIMh4E6oEgtykjGK03qukGjQyCjs6lQfzzyxMvddHSd-7u2xb-hwo3WKL3S9KHVp84uHiqCTPntu034kAooioRVpHGIu68QFUw1Ap31b02pdFhdclfzkAdZlEipq_-Fr74w0/s1600-h/DSCN3183.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEE0G65oCkIMh4E6oEgtykjGK03qukGjQyCjs6lQfzzyxMvddHSd-7u2xb-hwo3WKL3S9KHVp84uHiqCTPntu034kAooioRVpHGIu68QFUw1Ap31b02pdFhdclfzkAdZlEipq_-Fr74w0/s400/DSCN3183.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184570546084120242" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And wrong side of the shirt - you can see the cording in the pintucks. You can also the finishing of the seams - not French this time, but baby seams (as described by Claire Shaeffer in High Fashion Secrets - see, buying all those books really pays off).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWXes-xTsmF-6rC3-bltQVxkpTBNJLaAaiNq-XRTxbM3DzyZe0ZdZAzz9NDNg6CuQHw6ujk55sgp-M3l4tv6Y-EbHbyrrYgwGmMgbKWUmVLJe17sgA3jrdAfrvXmdh7blBcOad7mE0fyj/s1600-h/DSCN3185.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWXes-xTsmF-6rC3-bltQVxkpTBNJLaAaiNq-XRTxbM3DzyZe0ZdZAzz9NDNg6CuQHw6ujk55sgp-M3l4tv6Y-EbHbyrrYgwGmMgbKWUmVLJe17sgA3jrdAfrvXmdh7blBcOad7mE0fyj/s400/DSCN3185.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184570550379087570" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The hem is finished with store-bought satin bias (the same that I used on the hem of my not your usual A-line skirt).<br /><br />Here's a close-up of the lace and the double button stand (loved this one, first time I try it).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh020GphwstxjLa9ycT7xkMpllsRC-mBnISqtYeaCrou6RML7-lwDjaTqloHZXl6mvswx_-ejcKSG-_fDW77hLhbl85OkDam-zEACzsKKpwbd4EEp_-Jx3YADHJArH5PBhksYS1Cib3y8HN/s1600-h/DSCN3188.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh020GphwstxjLa9ycT7xkMpllsRC-mBnISqtYeaCrou6RML7-lwDjaTqloHZXl6mvswx_-ejcKSG-_fDW77hLhbl85OkDam-zEACzsKKpwbd4EEp_-Jx3YADHJArH5PBhksYS1Cib3y8HN/s400/DSCN3188.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184570816667059970" border="0" /></a><br /><br />And here's a pic of the collar, I find it really clever: the upper collar is in one piece and cut on the bias, the under collar is made of a collar and a stand and is cut on the grain. Thus, you do have a stand incorporated (and you can see the collar standing quite high on the neck) but you also have the advantage of the bias upper collar wrapping so nicely over the stand.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8dXLBbvd1018XSI4KmodR3pKbgEncQcZwFbkWkExLee87s3TzrXjNs6ujToDt_ilHTsCMtG65Wyo1gFD-s7M7TAjmRCWtBMPKK5eU6TwzPinGgAtmDUD-IVzc1_NsVl2ScJdIwxPAvvh/s1600-h/DSCN3187.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8dXLBbvd1018XSI4KmodR3pKbgEncQcZwFbkWkExLee87s3TzrXjNs6ujToDt_ilHTsCMtG65Wyo1gFD-s7M7TAjmRCWtBMPKK5eU6TwzPinGgAtmDUD-IVzc1_NsVl2ScJdIwxPAvvh/s400/DSCN3187.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184570812372092658" border="0" /></a><br /><br />There's a buttonhole in the under collar (and my advice, if you make this pattern, is to read the instructions very carefully; otherwise, you risk messing up both the collar - the buttonhole must be sewn very early in the process, and the double button stand). The collar can be worn both buttoned or unbuttoned, but I prefer it buttoned. Likewise, the cuffs can be worn as in the picture or turned and looking like French cuffs.<br /><br />The placket of the shirt is described in <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/03/not-your-usual-shirt-placket.html" target="_blank"">this </a>post.<br /><br />That's it for now. Please give me ideas about naming this shirt. And stay put. I have a little black dress to show you, together with two more small tutorials.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-70492190969441259682008-04-01T01:59:00.000-07:002008-04-01T04:39:29.143-07:00I'm back...I don't know if you missed me or not and sorry to be absent so long. I've got a huuuuge amount of work lately, worked late and used my time rather for sewing than blogging. Plus, the NATO summit starts tomorrow in Bucharest (presidents from all over the world arrive today) and the city is a mess because of that: security restrictions, many institutions closed and an awful-awful traffic.<br /><br />Thanks to all of you who commented meanwhile and sorry for not being able to answer. A special thank you goes to Nedra who delurked and noticed a very important error in my placket tutorial: the placket should be 1" wide, not 1/2! (the imperial system is sometimes a handful for me) . Thank you, Nedra, now it's corrected.<br /><br /><a href="http://twoontwooff.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Dawn</a>, thank you so much for tagging me and leaving such a nice comment at my blog. I promise I'll try to name 7 random things about me as soon as possible. Please bear with me!<br /><br />I've finished meanwhile three SWAP items and I'm going to show them to you, each one in a different post (so it's easier to link to them in my final SWAP review) . I would also like to apologize for the not so good quality of some of the photos (in this post and the next ones). My camera is quite old and I don't know why, some of the pictures took with the self-timer are a bit blurry or too dark. I know I should try taking them in natural light, but I only have natural light during weekends in my home and weekends are already filled with many other activities.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SWAP item #7 - Not your usual A-line skirt</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpu-Hr_euWOgOCqMlTdAIcXLbVJWFLSQ2gPVuDUYq46eyjoBRvkHu9GU1f_U4A2hLmUA1xYcDAMXtURDO4o25cTHR9Ru2il75MVyxQiwwGP0yXrI13HpYfNCIylbpOSJGc8T40QmC23dO4/s1600-h/DSCN3172.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpu-Hr_euWOgOCqMlTdAIcXLbVJWFLSQ2gPVuDUYq46eyjoBRvkHu9GU1f_U4A2hLmUA1xYcDAMXtURDO4o25cTHR9Ru2il75MVyxQiwwGP0yXrI13HpYfNCIylbpOSJGc8T40QmC23dO4/s400/DSCN3172.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184211512587978146" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is the skirt from my wardrobe pattern, Vogue <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2813.htm?search=donna%20karan&page=2" target="_blank"">2813 </a>- a Donna Karan pattern. It is a very interesting pattern, as you will be able to see below. The front has some very interesting details, (see the drawing), there is a slotted seam effect. Each front piece has facings that are sewn and turned under, then front pieces are joined by means of an underlay and topstitched, once at 1/4" (approx 6mm) and the second time at 3/8" (approx 1 cm). The back darts are treated the same: cut open, faced and then joined with an underlay and topstitched. Well, it is a bit hard to explain, hope the drawing and the pictures will speak for themselves. If not, tell me and I'll take a photo of the pattern pieces.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2iILPhmzpt3XvfOQK1qQ7cja_t1Dj3TwQ2cVIVFZfGpwNRwAy9hQXiDjNO1Jb9Gn0evQznB9WCLVC5MVoohuyeYFkDpcg4xpdDdfeaiUdQ3qfAStHYXT2u3-JEauzLnvDb75wkfMrV7V/s1600-h/V2813.gif"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2iILPhmzpt3XvfOQK1qQ7cja_t1Dj3TwQ2cVIVFZfGpwNRwAy9hQXiDjNO1Jb9Gn0evQznB9WCLVC5MVoohuyeYFkDpcg4xpdDdfeaiUdQ3qfAStHYXT2u3-JEauzLnvDb75wkfMrV7V/s400/V2813.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184230900070352498" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Side view of the skirt:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlX_ssd83wIXdrqm3wuA0U9H6ynM9IgQoWojgX9VZD1i8VYz5pgUqlfZ5MDVcEsz-I1w86hXhTZUBtA1_4k0h2LM5YCbEdNoB24KNNRsSQBrkFpCYtT__TukB_qwK97c9u4D7MUJuTdVD/s1600-h/DSCN3173.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlX_ssd83wIXdrqm3wuA0U9H6ynM9IgQoWojgX9VZD1i8VYz5pgUqlfZ5MDVcEsz-I1w86hXhTZUBtA1_4k0h2LM5YCbEdNoB24KNNRsSQBrkFpCYtT__TukB_qwK97c9u4D7MUJuTdVD/s400/DSCN3173.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184211516882945458" border="0" /></a><br /><br />View of the front slot seams:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWuvZRh5nuBcK9PZ3enRorFTnlnMtZeVuQvxiDxUSz5ry0EpNpL4tCGaDgFh9w6Sm_YAfm-pP7OrziGW0GCRoRWdsdSryTGuuXjuSzs1NIOqtI7KzHaeUkqU39qWvYxh9GDzfoqh3iu1u/s1600-h/DSCN3176.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWuvZRh5nuBcK9PZ3enRorFTnlnMtZeVuQvxiDxUSz5ry0EpNpL4tCGaDgFh9w6Sm_YAfm-pP7OrziGW0GCRoRWdsdSryTGuuXjuSzs1NIOqtI7KzHaeUkqU39qWvYxh9GDzfoqh3iu1u/s400/DSCN3176.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184211525472880098" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back (the line of the front seams continue in the back):<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KQinSUydDRmeKB1y_1uNzttmpN3J4ASLjH4TxVyEKXKKrHpFucZXeo0RZKCc1iG4yiOmtDi_EEsu7-ykAdTfx5E-CNHFF57J3-0MHKahXq8wEorz_ktArMTT9m2WM0My5B2IQgn2KaK1/s1600-h/DSCN3174.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KQinSUydDRmeKB1y_1uNzttmpN3J4ASLjH4TxVyEKXKKrHpFucZXeo0RZKCc1iG4yiOmtDi_EEsu7-ykAdTfx5E-CNHFF57J3-0MHKahXq8wEorz_ktArMTT9m2WM0My5B2IQgn2KaK1/s400/DSCN3174.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184240022580889234" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back darts<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmIuikAoVuth_utW60KN695mEPWgKQhUmx0NTKiKo5HPFb_l4T8hSn27NS4-tvrG_a04b8hwL1ktsOmUB2n73QHSUf4lkcB_IPRmAEcetMQnyEaCsFakOTihkducn367IzJL1LqfiGjkz/s1600-h/DSCN3175.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmIuikAoVuth_utW60KN695mEPWgKQhUmx0NTKiKo5HPFb_l4T8hSn27NS4-tvrG_a04b8hwL1ktsOmUB2n73QHSUf4lkcB_IPRmAEcetMQnyEaCsFakOTihkducn367IzJL1LqfiGjkz/s400/DSCN3175.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184211521177912786" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The skirt doesn't have a lining. I chose to underline it using the same nylon sheer that I usually use for that. I laid the nylon sheer over the assembled skirt (yet unclosed at the center back seam) and carefully traced the shape of the skirt on the lining, then pinched the excess with pins, shaping darts.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62Sa7kg6vJgBgZWQJPOUgJNbxrdTOsQWQ51LjCjM6du5rnjLwUaSZDfSokTzN9dNUg1-V3ZipwIrEC7WC1lOLQMJp7asL6DP-m0StR9unmwBC5ruoPqHmWMwNnPnqf-MqasA8KE9LTxeh/s1600-h/DSCN3177.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62Sa7kg6vJgBgZWQJPOUgJNbxrdTOsQWQ51LjCjM6du5rnjLwUaSZDfSokTzN9dNUg1-V3ZipwIrEC7WC1lOLQMJp7asL6DP-m0StR9unmwBC5ruoPqHmWMwNnPnqf-MqasA8KE9LTxeh/s400/DSCN3177.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184236758405744258" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tip:</span> If you want to sew an easy hem on a flared skirt and you are willing to bind the hem, here's what I did: I used bought bias tape and when sewing it to the skirt's hem, I stretched it as much as I could. Doing this, the excess flare in the hem was eased into the bias. After pressing, you get a nice binding and when sewing the hem, you'll discover there's no more fabric to ease in, gather, make little darts etc.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbk_PaW_1RgPI2B3qjqjd6qHbaxOVUC0DbRooq0HMori-y_Mcev6sIV3pcfS0ehmSdopbs0iQtPYLaXTApeKtf4dXPG3w1UZjCYV2gIRanZY8f9OoDsB_dvZWpIb_dcuOjZ7O5p_KeiYO/s1600-h/DSCN3130.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbk_PaW_1RgPI2B3qjqjd6qHbaxOVUC0DbRooq0HMori-y_Mcev6sIV3pcfS0ehmSdopbs0iQtPYLaXTApeKtf4dXPG3w1UZjCYV2gIRanZY8f9OoDsB_dvZWpIb_dcuOjZ7O5p_KeiYO/s400/DSCN3130.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184212813963069010" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I used a decorative stitching on the binding. The same stitching is repeated on the waist facing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8C3GtWZIEuE1Hac3-M7q0i7iWwrcee5UHYLRFx9s6FXAd1f2nq9Qsd9-xXUtq8j9R2FehP1x2ll12VxIU6LoqQc06rESxyqVMcQt17KEKfvhQC1UWLKw1_jGVJPReb0nQsUnaLQitBiM/s1600-h/DSCN3178.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8C3GtWZIEuE1Hac3-M7q0i7iWwrcee5UHYLRFx9s6FXAd1f2nq9Qsd9-xXUtq8j9R2FehP1x2ll12VxIU6LoqQc06rESxyqVMcQt17KEKfvhQC1UWLKw1_jGVJPReb0nQsUnaLQitBiM/s400/DSCN3178.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184212801078167042" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The zipper is finished with satin ribbon (I don't remember right now if I read about this in Roberta Carr or Claire Shaeffer).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiwIohr0iu0180m7tVKf24usabzFjroh-d8vUBWuewxWORn5BAPGEJ1GOmU3CwpuvIMnEOqi_B8Flp9H6ABYHhhDJNLIejPEDfu3b7HGu9dUglBhqCgL7elH6Vikm6PlA9RCR7QsEN7KX/s1600-h/DSCN3179.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiwIohr0iu0180m7tVKf24usabzFjroh-d8vUBWuewxWORn5BAPGEJ1GOmU3CwpuvIMnEOqi_B8Flp9H6ABYHhhDJNLIejPEDfu3b7HGu9dUglBhqCgL7elH6Vikm6PlA9RCR7QsEN7KX/s400/DSCN3179.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184212805373134354" border="0" /></a>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-36396929946213443072008-03-19T03:22:00.001-07:002008-03-21T11:30:44.407-07:00Not your usual shirt placket :))Well, I'm working on my second blouse (and third top) for my Timmel SWAP entry, which is the shirt from my wardrobe pattern, <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2813.htm?search=donna%20karan&page=2" target="_blank"">Vogue 2813</a>, made in red silk twill (necktie silk).<br /><br />The shirt is far from being finished (I added a bit of embellishment to the front, and I'm making French seams again) but I'd like to show you how I treated the shirt placket.<br /><br />Regarding the placket, I know that some bloggers find it difficult, therefore I'd like to point you to two extremely useful tutorial (at least they were for me):<br /><br /><ul><li>Kathleen Fasanella's tutorial: <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt3.html">part 1</a>,<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt4.html"> part 2</a>, <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt5.html">part 3 </a>(I've tried this tutorial and loved it, it works great and it is easy)</li><li>Rusty Bobbin's <a href="http://rustybobbin.com/inklings/archives/000353.html" target="_blank"">tutorial </a>for a shirt placket with continuous lap: I haven't tried this one but am looking forward to trying it. It looks easy, logical and the result is beautiful. Her method inspired me for the placket treatment that I'm showing today.<br /></li><li>I'm waiting for David Coffin's <span style="font-style: italic;">Shirtmaking</span>. It's going to be here soon. As a parenthesis, I bought a few books lately and am currently reading them (Claire Shaffer's <span style="font-style: italic;">Couture Sewing Techniques</span> and <span style="font-style: italic;">High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers: A Step-By-Step Guide to Sewing Stylish Seams, Buttonholes, Pockets, Collars, Hems, And More, </span>Roberta Carr's <span style="font-style: italic;">Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing</span> and <span style="font-style: italic;">Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket). </span>When I buy a sewing book, I read it page by page. I then re-read it many times, by sections, according to the project I'm working on and the information that I need. </li></ul><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual shirt placket<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHmSSwpEUAzSDJsN9xvsujBlrl0n94cLczLhRucBVxq9pnPBDYxtDrMP-Nbl0FNS29h_DX_bYZQgzkbCpo7ZQUKVVow-ufy8AB4FW8G9t0pUfg9vPAkFB-sq3eESjkUIOXa5kHYHVAie/s1600-h/DSCN3149.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHmSSwpEUAzSDJsN9xvsujBlrl0n94cLczLhRucBVxq9pnPBDYxtDrMP-Nbl0FNS29h_DX_bYZQgzkbCpo7ZQUKVVow-ufy8AB4FW8G9t0pUfg9vPAkFB-sq3eESjkUIOXa5kHYHVAie/s400/DSCN3149.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179399163320548242" border="0" /></a><br /><br />First, cut a piece for the placket. This needs to be cut on grain, the width is 1' (approx. 2.5 cm), the length is twice the length of your placket slit plus 1' (approx 2.5 cm).<br /><br />On the wrong side of the sleeve, draw around the slit a rectangle, adding 1/4' on each side of the slit and a supplementary 1/4" at the top, where the slit stops (see my picture below; look at the indigo lines, drawn with my vanishing marker. The white chalk marks are the original pattern marks. And sorry for the wonky lines, they are actually straight, but I moved the silk by mistake before taking the picture).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRajDbct9PIqBfmIaJzDG1sDlrYXdN2uqEpr3EbCKPXPgW97uixz6W5_pX4bRB2EYgoYjxtXJL8-Dr5bE2GDCuV_V2xYoDYgj6iOYeIZUA_kisV0C87QptU7gjp7_d0NhKJlNpg8VQ7es6/s1600-h/DSCN3137.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRajDbct9PIqBfmIaJzDG1sDlrYXdN2uqEpr3EbCKPXPgW97uixz6W5_pX4bRB2EYgoYjxtXJL8-Dr5bE2GDCuV_V2xYoDYgj6iOYeIZUA_kisV0C87QptU7gjp7_d0NhKJlNpg8VQ7es6/s400/DSCN3137.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398166888135426" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now cut your slit open with really sharp scissors. You cut a straight line which is the length of your original slit (without the additional 1/4" at the top) and then, at the top, you cut diagonally to the top of the rectangle, like you would for a welt pocket.<br /><br />You can see the cut below. I spread the sleeve so you can see accurately how I cut.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgaLcd5qogrRLJ2J-8o3XSXAiyBb8BS_8-En90dcaZ5VVGUHbaRysWN12R7nmajZlRbWHmaSuvb0zt2IZDJfUYbVh1EvW8z_Ia35musYvsHtwl8mUaes2vCXc4f0LOCa4yxPzyx3CIL8G3/s1600-h/DSCN3138.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgaLcd5qogrRLJ2J-8o3XSXAiyBb8BS_8-En90dcaZ5VVGUHbaRysWN12R7nmajZlRbWHmaSuvb0zt2IZDJfUYbVh1EvW8z_Ia35musYvsHtwl8mUaes2vCXc4f0LOCa4yxPzyx3CIL8G3/s400/DSCN3138.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398171183102738" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Now, take your placket and fold 1/4" on one long edge. Press.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-3fseo_g-Lk05wkXl-NWofqTgWaHB0OvmBE-vURQVFgMZAHLf-26vJXWEAmnNOas1B9L8Yyyu5mE50RJLSNVpbzHMdEkl4_fURU073TolQIzxNuHXMnsyF4odSb7OY20kiBprU5OMHFV/s1600-h/DSCN3136.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-3fseo_g-Lk05wkXl-NWofqTgWaHB0OvmBE-vURQVFgMZAHLf-26vJXWEAmnNOas1B9L8Yyyu5mE50RJLSNVpbzHMdEkl4_fURU073TolQIzxNuHXMnsyF4odSb7OY20kiBprU5OMHFV/s400/DSCN3136.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398158298200818" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Put the placket's right side (the unfolded edge aligned to the slit) to the sleeve's wrong side , and sew continuously: one side of the slit, the cut triangle, the other side of the slit. See the result below (the circle points you to the sewn triangle).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFm1_VAT-HRNPKzEbc7PfKAWyBHlyCRfTE-l54fPu_KG89-3QD1Npq5g7LonxqqqURR4Rks2m6iTLX0-Cr4yh8dnd7GDklp0U0dv1DUxgo8dCP79gvMdjNwl4_HpZgKh2w8W2GCBhKHni/s1600-h/DSCN3139.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFm1_VAT-HRNPKzEbc7PfKAWyBHlyCRfTE-l54fPu_KG89-3QD1Npq5g7LonxqqqURR4Rks2m6iTLX0-Cr4yh8dnd7GDklp0U0dv1DUxgo8dCP79gvMdjNwl4_HpZgKh2w8W2GCBhKHni/s400/DSCN3139.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398175478070050" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Press your seam allowances towards your placket. It should look like this:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7S_T5mgFvmmb83xMceNrjTQR-ixH8Z5awQM7h84RWC2neXxLIeISkssYc22hlvX-gMBJQ4eOHQCeToTrGmyfPNGsRH_dqtmJck3Vdfyq9NRTbYP1iodNE3Hd4db98dUbudRqGus3_HKc/s1600-h/DSCN3140.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7S_T5mgFvmmb83xMceNrjTQR-ixH8Z5awQM7h84RWC2neXxLIeISkssYc22hlvX-gMBJQ4eOHQCeToTrGmyfPNGsRH_dqtmJck3Vdfyq9NRTbYP1iodNE3Hd4db98dUbudRqGus3_HKc/s400/DSCN3140.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398179773037362" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now fold the placket and wrap it over your seam allowances, bringing the pre-folded edge to the right side of the sleeve (make sure you cover the stitching).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP8059_38ozywksxU5Ca92QHPb2W-Flc7Nj58EqQ7ds9WnNS_kWBfXPHDxFJ0gFJgQ0V2iHcyrOYq0CxeLIWN-usBnWiyQw69_bj8fIVCVZSOUkFleorGL8RwPEs8JGp5IXBW5lN082oX/s1600-h/DSCN3141.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEP8059_38ozywksxU5Ca92QHPb2W-Flc7Nj58EqQ7ds9WnNS_kWBfXPHDxFJ0gFJgQ0V2iHcyrOYq0CxeLIWN-usBnWiyQw69_bj8fIVCVZSOUkFleorGL8RwPEs8JGp5IXBW5lN082oX/s400/DSCN3141.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398845492968258" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Press. At the top of the rectangle, form a peak with your finger and press in place. It should look like this:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5gmrV6DnO5RX73ZcMn2H5DfdkxbtDwAg94ErhiOzW4DEBxOvmalQzXSKOfG6w-jWO11-qwjXriEYcZj_1zbGjc4jyZay7Blru-RB5uvEfODJh2R2qkADbu_W7nMOsMo5G4Ta2jYJf4ee/s1600-h/DSCN3142.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5gmrV6DnO5RX73ZcMn2H5DfdkxbtDwAg94ErhiOzW4DEBxOvmalQzXSKOfG6w-jWO11-qwjXriEYcZj_1zbGjc4jyZay7Blru-RB5uvEfODJh2R2qkADbu_W7nMOsMo5G4Ta2jYJf4ee/s400/DSCN3142.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179398849787935570" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now you're ready to sew. Edgestitch (an edgestitching foot helps) the placket and you're done.<br /><br />Finished placket<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHmSSwpEUAzSDJsN9xvsujBlrl0n94cLczLhRucBVxq9pnPBDYxtDrMP-Nbl0FNS29h_DX_bYZQgzkbCpo7ZQUKVVow-ufy8AB4FW8G9t0pUfg9vPAkFB-sq3eESjkUIOXa5kHYHVAie/s1600-h/DSCN3149.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHmSSwpEUAzSDJsN9xvsujBlrl0n94cLczLhRucBVxq9pnPBDYxtDrMP-Nbl0FNS29h_DX_bYZQgzkbCpo7ZQUKVVow-ufy8AB4FW8G9t0pUfg9vPAkFB-sq3eESjkUIOXa5kHYHVAie/s400/DSCN3149.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179399163320548242" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Wrong side of the placket<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPZ19Ny3vcQm00Gn2ueSp38Z3jHLxZ71p_u4W-LNkJweubhB4llBgcO-bkwhlKycQ1h8Hp2liOTIacL4Xcuq2t5Wxu1umemEzud4AHvmyx49b5KusEjRZtabw1pEVIPjiDrvaj45z26rJ/s1600-h/DSCN3151.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPZ19Ny3vcQm00Gn2ueSp38Z3jHLxZ71p_u4W-LNkJweubhB4llBgcO-bkwhlKycQ1h8Hp2liOTIacL4Xcuq2t5Wxu1umemEzud4AHvmyx49b5KusEjRZtabw1pEVIPjiDrvaj45z26rJ/s400/DSCN3151.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5179408105442458562" border="0" /></a>LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-52764029930201442492008-03-12T04:14:00.000-07:002008-03-12T05:57:51.115-07:00SWAP item #6 - Not your usual white shirt<span style="font-weight: bold;">Not your usual white shirt</span> - Burda WOF 01/2008, blouse <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/108_Blouse/1270777-1463237-1579053-1579058-1579210.html" target="_blank"">108</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdtJE7i7AgcejBnwYIM6IqhTHLrIIelSUdl2RxkkZlQbAy5j2VS2uqmMxAIDLul9pOAxfKijL-Z1ZQv6hiuxJgV0yeqdt_vBdTz2CZJZ26w6si9Em3OSKEmCH4TRekKXXjN4BVIQjbZIQ/s1600-h/DSCN3113.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdtJE7i7AgcejBnwYIM6IqhTHLrIIelSUdl2RxkkZlQbAy5j2VS2uqmMxAIDLul9pOAxfKijL-Z1ZQv6hiuxJgV0yeqdt_vBdTz2CZJZ26w6si9Em3OSKEmCH4TRekKXXjN4BVIQjbZIQ/s400/DSCN3113.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813378259991138" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Untucked (I prefer it tucked in)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fvjxvH897tv4oxl-oCXALXQEk5KorQH4zyjepUKo215AfV9_Tk7PxRD3L2NLoS8y9TE3o0gfROQGu162ZA34x23Bk57VbdRxjGF0yVejG7xZ0kcynoaItoy6fSpBVaExevOO3atp2-l6/s1600-h/DSCN3112.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fvjxvH897tv4oxl-oCXALXQEk5KorQH4zyjepUKo215AfV9_Tk7PxRD3L2NLoS8y9TE3o0gfROQGu162ZA34x23Bk57VbdRxjGF0yVejG7xZ0kcynoaItoy6fSpBVaExevOO3atp2-l6/s400/DSCN3112.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176812188554050130" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Blouse lying flat<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDS9uASEKhk8-FAqbPmiSZIaqjaePUp2RDn10bp5hkzLyE80O366Hb-HIhQt0NNcTmW7EPEmCebs45jI7KkDJ9-pxvV6OvckiI8i3_qqUANEKdj9e2m3uSBhP_8UDclzLdlCoZ3cu7Zgdj/s1600-h/DSCN3126.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDS9uASEKhk8-FAqbPmiSZIaqjaePUp2RDn10bp5hkzLyE80O366Hb-HIhQt0NNcTmW7EPEmCebs45jI7KkDJ9-pxvV6OvckiI8i3_qqUANEKdj9e2m3uSBhP_8UDclzLdlCoZ3cu7Zgdj/s400/DSCN3126.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176814009620183746" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I had another shirt in mind for this fabric but <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Christina</a>'s <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/2008/02/bwof-project-of-month-january.html" target="_blank"">blouse </a>(which I liked very much) and a blouse worn in <span style="font-style: italic;">Dirt 113 - Ite missa est</span> by Laura Allen (cream silk with black piping) "fermented" in my brain and led to the present entry.<br /><br />The fabric is white silk (I don't know what kind of silk, but here's a close-up of the fabric):<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkARvi-jRuELv7vCw1LnVXBXONBQ_bpZ76IUgDAdIobChz4w4_eM6baAJsPN73cdJBiBAhi2GxsF6gADsIPTKSHIE8jdMk6TQgv3rbpsJlqqe_EBphnDmozEIYrv_pU8mVDcLWy9ULLz1/s1600-h/DSCN3118.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkARvi-jRuELv7vCw1LnVXBXONBQ_bpZ76IUgDAdIobChz4w4_eM6baAJsPN73cdJBiBAhi2GxsF6gADsIPTKSHIE8jdMk6TQgv3rbpsJlqqe_EBphnDmozEIYrv_pU8mVDcLWy9ULLz1/s400/DSCN3118.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813404029794962" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I did a petite alteration to this blouse. <span class="prbig">If you speak or understand German, here's a link to a pdf file explaining petite alterations on the Burdafashion <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/downloads/Workshops_DE/Workshop_08_2005.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">website</a>. Actually even if you don't speak German (I don't) I think the drawing speak for themselves. Also, <a href="http://etd.lsu.edu/docs/available/etd-08152005-112116/unrestricted/McRoberts_thesis.pdf" target="_blank"">here</a>'s a link to a thesis for a master degree. It is titled "Petite women: fit and body shape analysis" and it provides a lot of details concerning petite alteration. It's a very interesting paper, if you have the time for it.<br /><br />I decided to use French seams for this blouse - I like this type of clean finish plus my silk is a tiny bit sheer.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtpIviPiAgE9T4YGfoNpDDTbYrUPLSqr-mkcO6OI5RMo0C6qptr8BA3DvdBNiPbGQaDgubFNXGVVCnNnCRyxnM3UV59M2nCdecAlXHcnPsIuj3olgRTn8H4_ZrtGcHwhXAZG3Zy7Uk8kA/s1600-h/DSCN3127.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtpIviPiAgE9T4YGfoNpDDTbYrUPLSqr-mkcO6OI5RMo0C6qptr8BA3DvdBNiPbGQaDgubFNXGVVCnNnCRyxnM3UV59M2nCdecAlXHcnPsIuj3olgRTn8H4_ZrtGcHwhXAZG3Zy7Uk8kA/s400/DSCN3127.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176814018210118354" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5G_riei9GxF34kFcPhlV_fcHodoTw-KIhzRyRHy12VqK0VN7Ep9gdSsz1iFOmhLxJ_T4COgeNTk-nXH1ndM0oe1rGl9ym0prSuAQQTLYVDt0_hHMvmF6p5L2o-XarVCyoiCpwbAM0gH9Y/s1600-h/DSCN3114.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5G_riei9GxF34kFcPhlV_fcHodoTw-KIhzRyRHy12VqK0VN7Ep9gdSsz1iFOmhLxJ_T4COgeNTk-nXH1ndM0oe1rGl9ym0prSuAQQTLYVDt0_hHMvmF6p5L2o-XarVCyoiCpwbAM0gH9Y/s400/DSCN3114.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813382554958450" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The armhole seams are finished with satin bias binding. The same satin bias was used to finish the hem.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtpIviPiAgE9T4YGfoNpDDTbYrUPLSqr-mkcO6OI5RMo0C6qptr8BA3DvdBNiPbGQaDgubFNXGVVCnNnCRyxnM3UV59M2nCdecAlXHcnPsIuj3olgRTn8H4_ZrtGcHwhXAZG3Zy7Uk8kA/s1600-h/DSCN3127.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtpIviPiAgE9T4YGfoNpDDTbYrUPLSqr-mkcO6OI5RMo0C6qptr8BA3DvdBNiPbGQaDgubFNXGVVCnNnCRyxnM3UV59M2nCdecAlXHcnPsIuj3olgRTn8H4_ZrtGcHwhXAZG3Zy7Uk8kA/s400/DSCN3127.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176814018210118354" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I've used <a href="http://www.mysecretpocket.com/" target="_blank"">Dawn</a>'s <a href="http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2008/01/dart-tip.html" target="_blank"">tip </a>for perfect darts (I've been using it all the time since she posted it) - so logical and clever to position your fabric to have a straight line from the needle, to the dart tip, to your nose!<br /><br />And I've used <a href="http://sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Sigrid</a>'s <a href="http://www.box.net/shared/43oevmk8zv" target="_blank"">tutorial </a>for the collar with stand. Great tutorial, the result was a very nice collar.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZMQleLT4_nRCw3KxnZLmcj-x057iw0_63UXwF7M2UVMfLrWa59aesV0Mc3fdMHlTsAl-1H7J7VSZl_2NtvfIhOzCrqVIhGeZHd-m3nMebdqGKRGxA08timAgO2NdN8SBRJGzk8gZHAL47/s1600-h/DSCN3128.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZMQleLT4_nRCw3KxnZLmcj-x057iw0_63UXwF7M2UVMfLrWa59aesV0Mc3fdMHlTsAl-1H7J7VSZl_2NtvfIhOzCrqVIhGeZHd-m3nMebdqGKRGxA08timAgO2NdN8SBRJGzk8gZHAL47/s400/DSCN3128.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176814039684954850" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I wanted clean lines of piping and didn't want any topstitching (either white or black) near my piping, therefore the sleeve cuffs and the button stands are finished by hand on the inside, with the tiniest slipstitch possible and silk thread.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oT9uaN_dRTp9jrIcUKiLoJ0PjxsJZvVmQZ8mcJJUBPNaTIAgyXXwed2QEhUF0QJqBEGoJaBNOINxOgzETtobkQy8TAAKB5yBhmRi5mWW3gemIPxVCY2N9xnEpJmoL1fDLoM0-SlF1ae7/s1600-h/DSCN3115.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oT9uaN_dRTp9jrIcUKiLoJ0PjxsJZvVmQZ8mcJJUBPNaTIAgyXXwed2QEhUF0QJqBEGoJaBNOINxOgzETtobkQy8TAAKB5yBhmRi5mWW3gemIPxVCY2N9xnEpJmoL1fDLoM0-SlF1ae7/s400/DSCN3115.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813399734827650" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Close-up of piping<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHYhVJVO2kLn1FHZwphdBZL5AOgXBq39if85vpMr2UHeDxDqnb2P93h52hQCpDMzwmkpeUC7E6SkdiHT3iYyQRfiC66lJsKrhyphenhyphenHFDQtv3-IC23JkniOHKqYaqEEkjYQIoJx_oIUVNk4N2/s1600-h/DSCN3124.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHYhVJVO2kLn1FHZwphdBZL5AOgXBq39if85vpMr2UHeDxDqnb2P93h52hQCpDMzwmkpeUC7E6SkdiHT3iYyQRfiC66lJsKrhyphenhyphenHFDQtv3-IC23JkniOHKqYaqEEkjYQIoJx_oIUVNk4N2/s400/DSCN3124.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813434094566050" border="0" /></a><br /><br />To add piping to the button stand, I cut two separate pieces for each stand instead of cutting the stand on fold. I've also made oblique buttonholes.<br /><br />I've used black satin piping (store-bought) and for the buttons and tie, a piece of polkadotted satin that I used for pipings and bindings (see my <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/01/how-could-i-manage-so-far-without.html" target="_blank"">toreador </a>pants)<br /><br />This was a time-consuming project, considering the French seams and the hand finishings. But the most time-consuming and annoying task was to cover the buttons in satin. The buttons were metal and the satin was sooooo slippery (starching didn't help too much). It was a pain to center the white dot on the buttons. I used temporary adhesive spray and it helped a bit.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39poF8T34xczXQx4zLkMM64cnzieSuhMfFWJ-PDGPUsvE3yeN0mz5eqiF9L5LNIaO1XC-nwDi29ev-vnSZBYMUoQuaVUwVcheqPmyN527WN_lcLC1KXnoo4eBpw1OIB0dPCdj3wab9K6e/s1600-h/DSCN3125.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39poF8T34xczXQx4zLkMM64cnzieSuhMfFWJ-PDGPUsvE3yeN0mz5eqiF9L5LNIaO1XC-nwDi29ev-vnSZBYMUoQuaVUwVcheqPmyN527WN_lcLC1KXnoo4eBpw1OIB0dPCdj3wab9K6e/s400/DSCN3125.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176813983850379954" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I didn't care for the bow at the neck (showed in the Burda magazine) so I'd rather wear my tie straight, without any bow. However, a word of warning for those wanting the bow: my tie is already 7 cm longer than the Burda tie and it would still be a bit too short for a bow. So if you want a bow, you should add about 10-15 cm to the tie.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6640672985810558308.post-37251077646383782942008-03-04T03:16:00.000-08:002008-03-05T06:07:25.395-08:00SWAP item #5 - Not your usual coatMore than two weeks have gone since my last post. My working life has been so busy and stressful that I ended up having some health problems last week, that got me a bit worried. I'm quite alright now, taking some pills, lots of vitamins + minerals. A discussion with my boss concerning my workload and stress levels also helped so I do hope that the next weeks will be a bit easier on me.<br /><br />I've worked on this coat on and off for two weeks. The pattern is BWOF 11/2007, coat <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/115_Coat/1270777-1463237-1564548-1564551-1564623.html" target="_blank"">115.</a><br />You can see the jacket version of this pattern made by Paco Peralta <a href="http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2007/12/chaqueta_26.html" target="_blank"">here</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeVfURh6PoQb3wlbEm15Jlv7UjdK9uElbU41BVPpo6mu_0AmQzyHimaART96AQRFmHOdf0ivu9z7Jj91yjrDFGm69jEiMRbxGZwaSXtMt5zrb3sR0cqyu-I-ROvj5gkqL5HlMmHcJNnTm4/s1600-h/DSCN3067.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeVfURh6PoQb3wlbEm15Jlv7UjdK9uElbU41BVPpo6mu_0AmQzyHimaART96AQRFmHOdf0ivu9z7Jj91yjrDFGm69jEiMRbxGZwaSXtMt5zrb3sR0cqyu-I-ROvj5gkqL5HlMmHcJNnTm4/s400/DSCN3067.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174238991952966370" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wjGJXFIoPPtPwq6xK5xRCVfO09neWhxFoycxApxm7V4ooZTNhmk539pXNdVxHHUrp51zECRAvf_TxavCZ1S7Ui0P6EKWaGtHcDB1b5VQkuIRpguO5uVhyphenhyphen6v6vRmhsFFiNBshZEbT6Obd/s1600-h/DSCN3068.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wjGJXFIoPPtPwq6xK5xRCVfO09neWhxFoycxApxm7V4ooZTNhmk539pXNdVxHHUrp51zECRAvf_TxavCZ1S7Ui0P6EKWaGtHcDB1b5VQkuIRpguO5uVhyphenhyphen6v6vRmhsFFiNBshZEbT6Obd/s400/DSCN3068.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174239000542900978" border="0" /></a><br />(I was in a playful mood last night when I took the pictures and I decided to imitate Jackie O :) )<br /><br />Why is this not your usual coat?<br /><ul><li>First, because of the print. The red/white/black boucle from <a href="http://timmelfabrics.com/" target="_blank"">TimmelFabrics</a> gives a different touch to this coat. It looks more cheerful and less formal to me, plus it ties in beautifully with my SWAP wardrobe. I only have coats in solids but this coat made me think about other prints (well, plaids, houndstooth) for coats.<br /></li><li>Second - it is all in the lining. The lining is a wool jersey, very soft and thin (I've read about Coco Chanel using wool jersey in her jackets). I think I've said it many times lately that I've become very partial to underlinings. After making my Chanel style <a href="http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2007/11/chanel-jacket-is-finished.html" target="_blank"">jacket</a>, I was absolutely thrilled with the softness and lightness of this jacket (after all, the Chanel technique of quilting the lining to the jacket is closer to an underlining than an actual lining), with the way the lining moves together with the garment, and not as a separate body joined at some seams. Read <a href="http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00010.asp" target="_blank"">here </a>an online Threads article by Sandra Betzina about lining versus underlining.<br /></li><li>I therefore decided to use for this coat a technique described by Shannon Gifford - click <a href="http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00232.asp" target="_blank"">here </a>for the Threads online article. She calls this technique "Line and Underline in one step", but I've also saw it called "flatlining". I won't insist on the technique as it is clearly described in the article but feel free to ask if you have any questions. I did however some things differently: 1) I didn't cut the seam allowances to 1/4 inches (approx 4 mm), as I'm using boucle and this ravels so easy that you don't want to take that chance; 2) In my opinion, topstitching the seam is not absolutely necessary. After pressing the seams well, I could have left them like that. I decided to topstitch because I thought a supplementary stitch will help even more in stabilising the boucle and preventing raveling and because the boucle is forgiving and all the stitching is "burried" in it any way. 3) I wanted to get closer to the Chanel technique, therefore after lining the entire coat, I quilted the lining to the coat. Yes, I get crazy ideas like that some times, must be all the work stress :) This time I spaced my quilting lines at 2 inches apart (approx 5 cm) instead of 1 inch (the way I did in my Chanel style jacket) and I've used again silk thread and my walking foot. And lots of pins. There are three rows of quilting on each panel, this makes for 24 long lines of quilting. It was difficult and time consuming because this time I was working with the entire coat sewn, not with one pattern piece at the time and my sewing table being quite small, my pins kept hitting other things on the table and coming loose and the coat was hanging all over the place. Well, I managed and to my surprise, the wool jersey burries the stitching even better than the boucle!<br /></li><li>What was different from making a Chanel style jacket: I taped the roll line, I taped the center fronts and the neckline, I staystitched and taped the armhole, I've interfaced the hem, extending the interfacing past the hemline. I didn't use a chain in the hem but still I needed something to weigh down this very light and drapey coat. Therefore I borrowed another technique of <a href="http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"">Paco </a>and inserted a curtain weight cord in the hem - see <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3YzgkqvteV4CM5SJ8iQg0nKEPSDGw4XnUmYWjBFmZRdshGXP3nycAYV7jHCd_oCPnNMKneIwPYBZiV3B1Yoq-1Srz0zRLBQbU_aE5wjfSh26jNj3V4U2Pht_rNhhPHmMujC9yPsT7Xs/s1600-h/buena+blog+2.JPG" target="_blank"">here </a>the photo on Paco's blog of the cord and the way it is inserted.<br /></li><li>The facings, the hem and the sleeve seams are bound with satin bias tape. The facings are slipstitched by hand to the coat.</li></ul><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKcqvdOPIy1QfQthiCnU-PGDoEMNllh7MSXISeNIdesDbAJmvg0tcgN_xwppVbKwEPPcSeQqNzx8W9flNiYE4xsap9wyQDhWWgJogvQMjz4UEIaWup6jG7YBlMZv7-v4p52sktkkkCUyX/s1600-h/DSCN3070.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKcqvdOPIy1QfQthiCnU-PGDoEMNllh7MSXISeNIdesDbAJmvg0tcgN_xwppVbKwEPPcSeQqNzx8W9flNiYE4xsap9wyQDhWWgJogvQMjz4UEIaWup6jG7YBlMZv7-v4p52sktkkkCUyX/s400/DSCN3070.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174239228176167698" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpt0E_ke-Wed8Qa37aBoYVjmNYzaHRbCcZQSG6zuthZ9hddGQ1S8lFdQaJRDh-6cWKODrTCp9hICdIilojYGMf33boOwzme9b4f8i4PqZ86HDiTJKPLMvuJllNLY-IRuMJ574xFUAbiCfA/s1600-h/DSCN3072.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpt0E_ke-Wed8Qa37aBoYVjmNYzaHRbCcZQSG6zuthZ9hddGQ1S8lFdQaJRDh-6cWKODrTCp9hICdIilojYGMf33boOwzme9b4f8i4PqZ86HDiTJKPLMvuJllNLY-IRuMJ574xFUAbiCfA/s400/DSCN3072.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174239245356036914" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6hT5poYH2z-rSGCZgVI4e4i6k1bqqZ6KoMrTMFjAgWp7ML7BvWkntkOX9aS-KjhGGzicY8i7n3Jc8yDLpPJTnKrwqnOgKPQa73cw_4r9HLJyy_njiEYhRCqYLHsUO_r0_ERhFda0CvsQ/s1600-h/DSCN3071.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6hT5poYH2z-rSGCZgVI4e4i6k1bqqZ6KoMrTMFjAgWp7ML7BvWkntkOX9aS-KjhGGzicY8i7n3Jc8yDLpPJTnKrwqnOgKPQa73cw_4r9HLJyy_njiEYhRCqYLHsUO_r0_ERhFda0CvsQ/s400/DSCN3071.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174239236766102306" border="0" /></a><br /><ul><li>Changes made to the pattern: I ditched the pockets (you cannot have in-seam pockets with this underlining technique). I first thought of making patch pockets but I didn't think they would go very well with this design so I gave up pockets altogether. I don't use coat pockets very much anyway, they go out of shape so easy. I also ditched the zippers inserted in the sleeve seam.<br /></li></ul>The result is an incredibly light coat, feels lighter than a cardigan and is very good for spring. Despite the lightness, is surprisingly warm, due to the wool jersey used in the underlining.LauraLohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09450981301329994368noreply@blogger.com32